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From workbench to brand

Suffice to consider the 300-some brands that form the landscape of Swiss watchmaking to realise that the world of mechanical watches is not for the fainthearted. Newly-qualified watchmakers almost always cut their teeth in a workshop under one of the profession’s established names. Some will embark on the restoration of vintage timepieces, seen by many as a rite of passage for whomever wishes to set up on their own. This is the road followed by François-Paul Journe, Franck Muller, Antoine Preziuso, Michel Parmigiani and Steven Forsey, to name but some. All have a passion for watchmaking in their blood matched by a talent no-one can deny.

As the years pass, from humble origins these workshops expand, taking on staff and introducing CNC machines in the drive towards vertical integration. While not all of them are aiming for complete autonomy, which demands millions in investments, all are intent on producing their own movements, a labour of love made entirely in-house. Spurred on by success, some of these genius watchmakers go further still, taking over suppliers and investing in more machines with the aim of achieving the rare and coveted status of Manufacture, a company with the capacity to produce virtually every single component of its timepieces itself. Thus they become a full-fledged brand whose name is immediately associated with the finest watchmaking expertise. C.R.

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