Return to the list of articles
How the swiss fine watchmakers have conquered China
High-end watches are the symbol of personal taste and a sense of achievement in China. Furthermore, the Chinese have a long history of watch-collecting, now helped by specialized magazines dedicated to the Haute Horlogerie.
David Chang*
In the 1960s, when China was in an era of planned economy, watches, clothes and bicycles were considered the three most important things to the local people. Swiss watches were absolutely precious high-priced items for the Chinese. It was not only a time instrument, but also the symbol of a high-quality life. In the era of quartz watches, the low-priced Japanese watches were once the favorites of the Chinese. However, Swiss watches had always been synonymous with superiority and excellent quality. In the late 1990s, the Chinese became increasingly aware of the many famous watch brands that originated in Switzerland.
The Chinese people have a great need for a sense of social confirmation, and for the rich stratum, luxuries such as high-end watches not only satisfy their material needs, they bring them psychological satisfaction. High-end watches are the symbol of personal taste and a sense of achievement. A very strong tendency to follow others influences people’s choices of watch brands, especially within professional categories, such as entrepreneurs or employees of foreign corporations, who wear restricted ranges of watch brands.
Aside from the Chinese social psychology factor, the topic of watch collecting and auctioning has also recently affected people’s perception of Swiss watches. The Chinese have a long history of watch-collecting, and today, in many Chinese cities, there are collectors of different styles of pocket watches that began to appear in China from the 19th century. In December 2004, prominent auction company China Guardian held the first watch auction in Beijing, and has continued with annual auctions. Watches have become a very popular topic in the area of auctions and collections through the social influence of the event. In fact, many watch buyers are also clients of international auction companies, such as Antiquorum, Christie’s and Sotheby’s.
Advertisement at the Forbidden City
In September 2004, Richemont Group celebrated the Watches & Wonders exhibition at the Tai Miao Temple of the Forbidden City of Beijing. (Exhibited brands were A. Lange & Söhne, Baume & Mercier, Cartier, Dunhill, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Montblanc, Panerai, Piaget and Vacheron Constantin.) As Dr. Franco Cologni mentioned in the publication of the exhibition, “This exhibition is an opportunity for Beijing’s citizens to renew with the finest in watchmaking. It begins with a historical presentation, illustrated by over 70 pieces, that retraces the development of European Fine Watchmaking. Visitors then learn about the associated techniques and crafts to finally discover the history and creations of ten of Richemont’s companies.” At the time I was also one of the professional journalists reporting on this exhibition, and I remember well that not only citizens of Beijing visited the exhibition, but also many watch collectors and enthusiasts from all over China. Top managing directors of the ten brands all came to China and had face-to-face interviews with the Chinese journalists. These series of activities had a very positive effect on spreading the brand concept and diffusing the watch culture. In fact, Watches & Wonders has been the most culturally influential watch exhibition held in China. The Fine Watchmaking connotation evoked by the French words “Haute Horlogerie” has also deepened the Chinese’s knowledge of watches, and exerted an important effect in expanding the high-end watch market in China.
In August 2006, Vacheron Constantin held a large exhibition of antique watches in Beijing, including some items specially made for China in the19th century. Nearly 200 journalists, more than 200 connoisseurs and VIPs from the mainland and Hong Kong attended this exhibition. The activity not only highlighted the transcendent status of Vacheron Constantin in the watchmaking area, but also reminded the Chinese that this brand began to make watches for the Chinese royal family in the middle of the 19th century. For the Chinese, who place great emphasis on their tradition, this exhibition about watches and China played an important role in brand-building.
Media introduce watches on a large scale
Now, with the prosperity of the Chinese watch market and an increase in advertising, watch companies have started specialized columns and programs introducing watches in newspapers, magazines, televisions and the Internet. Much of the content is about Swiss watches. These media outlets are playing a key role in providing information about watch merchandise, educating consumers about watches and the background of watch brands. Many customers finally decide which watches to buy through such articles and television programs or discussions in Internet forums.
As for the professional watch magazines, foreign versions have started to appear in China, some of which also deal with watch brands that haven’t yet entered the Chinese market or describe watches from a more in-depth perspective. These have helped broaden readers’ horizons, and professional magazines have started to diversify. I myself am also editing a publication about Haute Horlogerie. What’s more, magazines and newspapers that place a large emphasis on finance and fashion are also presenting other watch styles from different perspectives, such as investment, collection and wear, influencing readers from different backgrounds and leading new trends in watch consumption. ■
*Editorial Director, magazine and Watch Column
