Yesterday’s names make for today’s successes

Christophe Roulet - Investors, usually from the profession, are pumping millions into reviving these brands, intent on benefiting from the current infatuation with prestige mechanical watches.

Badollet, a Genevan watchmaker whose lineage ran from 1655 to the mid-twentieth century ; Jean Dunand, a pre-eminent figure in Parisian Art Deco ; Dimier, renowned in Fleurier as one of the pioneers of Swiss watchmaking ; Louis Moinet, a contemporary of Breguet with whom he produced numerous timepieces ; H. Moser & Cie, a centuries-old brand from Schaffhouse. These prestigious names in Swiss watchmaking all now have something in common : investors, usually from the profession, are pumping millions into reviving these brands, intent on benefiting from the current infatuation with prestige mechanical watches (see Economy). A similar phenomenon was observed in the 1990s. This time though it has reached new proportions (see Focus), on a par with Swiss watches’ soaring export sales.

Needless to say, the majority of these revivals have nothing to do with industrial strategy. This is pure marketing, as the appropriation of these prestigious names immediately gives their new owners an unhoped-for historical legitimacy. Specialists in the conception and manufacturing of high-end movements for third parties, such as BNB (see The Expert’s View and Training) and Agenhor, are the first to be rubbing their hands. The launch of so many new brands - a good twenty over the past few years – means no shortage of work for them. New too is that these companies, once sworn to secrecy by brands preferring not to divulge the truth about production that isn’t always done in-house, are now often openly credited with their contribution to the finished timepiece. Progress worth noting, especially as these firms are invariably assigned with providing after-sales service for their customers’ watches. Their support is essential, given that brands’ future, from those whose roots go back centuries to these not-quite-newcomers, will hinge on the quality of this service. After problems of supply, the next dilemma will be labelled ASS, three letters that some brands might well find hard to pronounce…

Christophe Roulet ■

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