In search of the perfect timepiece
Making its entrance in the Fine Watch segment this year, Maîtres du Temps brings together some of the foremost independent watchmakers for the creation of an exceptional timepiece. Christophe Claret, Roger Dubuis and Peter Speake-Marin are first to take the stage.
Florence Noël
Experts in Fine Watchmaking knew only too well. Someone as passionate about his work as Roger Dubuis wasn’t going to stay in retirement for long. So no one was surprised to see the watchmaker launch himself into a new adventure with Maîtres du Temps, a new and highly exclusive brand built around an unusual concept. Product manager Walter Ribaga explains: "Maîtres du Temps is first and foremost about friends who share the same passion." Steven Holtzman, the man behind the project and one of the leading distributors of prestige watches in the United States, has long nurtured the dream of creating his own brand. But not just any how. "I wanted to give watchmakers a framework and an opportunity to work together on the most innovative projects imaginable," he says.
A win-win situation
His objective: to bring eminent watchmakers together as a team to develop and produce exceptional timepieces. These independent artists lend their talent to the brand for a specific project, which aims for technical and conceptual perfection. "Each collaboration will be a chapter in the brand’s life. Their project must always be audacious, contemporary and above all intransigent as to the tiniest detail," he continues.
An uncompromising message aimed at watchmakers who aren’t afraid to put themselves on the line, but a win-win situation too. "Brands are generally reluctant to officially mention the name of the independent watchmakers they employ. Maîtres du Temps gives them genuine acknowledgement," Walter Ribaga points out.
Driven by this original concept, Steven Holtzman lost no time convincing Roger Dubuis, Christophe Claret and Peter Speake-Marin to write the first chapter in the Maîtres du Temps book. Three watchmakers, each of whom excels in his art. With a prestigious career in Fine Watchmaking, including 14 years producing grandes complications for Patek Philippe, Roger Dubuis brings his traditional vision of watchmaking to the project. The second member of the team, Christophe Claret, says he is still just as fascinated by the complexity of watch movements. "One of the strengths of the Maîtres du Temps project is that the customer, who often has a deep appreciation of extremely complicated watches, can get to know the people who conceived, made and assembled his watch," he explains. The English watchmaker Peter Speake-Marin completes the trio with a mastery of watchmaking techniques that borders on perfection.
Astonishing complexity
Two years and thousands of drawings later, the first watch signed by the prestigious American brand finally appeared. Completed just eight months ago, Chapter One - for that is its name – represents an astonishing degree of complexity with its 558 parts. Behind its imposing and highly contemporary styling lie six complications including a tourbillon and a single pushpiece column-wheel chronograph. In an innovative stroke, the days of the week and moon phases are displayed on rollers above and below the dial. "The concept for these rollers and incorporating them into the watch was an extremely difficult task," Walter Ribaga observes.
This exceptional timepiece, made as a limited edition of 33, is priced at around CHF 400,000. But how has the market responded to Chapter One, which was unveiled outside the SIHH? "There’s definite interest, in particular in the USA. But we’re not here to sell a watch, come what may. We take a more heartfelt, more philosophical approach. This is what differentiates us from other brands and gives another dimension to our product," declares Walter Ribaga. Deliveries of Chapter One will begin in June 2008 and a round version should be presented at the next SIHH, in January 2009. As for the next chapters, they will be penned by other master watchmakers. Only Roger Dubuis should again contribute to Chapters Two and Three, which could be unveiled at the next fairs in Basel or Geneva. ■
