Introducing a "radical" approach to Fine Watches
Geneva-born Nicolas Lehotzky has always admired the precision and quality of watchmaking. Currently a student at the Art Center College of Design in Pasadena, California (he graduates in December this year), the young designer is already working on his own creations. He talks about his "futuristic" vision for Fine Watches.
Katja Schaer, San Francisco
How do you see Fine Watchmaking?
Nicolas Lehotzky: I see Fine Watches as falling into two very distinct groups based on their appearance. The first are classic watches that stay true to a style. These are light, elegant, very detailed watches that incorporate "traditional" features such as moon phases. Blancpain, Patek Philippe and Breguet are some of the brands in this group. The second are modern watches that emphasise durability and technology, and which target a younger audience. These are watches that like to associate themselves with sports such as sailing, diving or motor racing, and which incorporate performance-measuring functions such as a chronograph or depth gauge. Rolex, Audemars Piguet and Breitling are some of the names that stand out here.
And yet you believe all these watches have something in common?
Yes, because modern watches use the same techniques as classic watches. They may look more "state-of-the-art", the techniques used to manufacture and assemble them are the same. The system of parts, strap, case and movement is the same; how they function is the same, with time displayed by hands and the movement wound at the crown.
So you’re saying Fine Watches are simply two groups of ultimately very similar products?
There’s very little to distinguish between the different watches on the market today. However, a third category of what I call "radical" watches is beginning to emerge. They aim to stand out from other models through spectacular designs and mechanisms. The Meccanico DG by de Grisogono, watches by Urwerk, HD3 or MB&F, and Harry Winston’s Tourbillon Glissière are all excellent examples. These watches are designed and manufactured in an entirely different way to traditional watches. Some of them are even designed by companies outside the watch sector, by specialists in precision mechanics for example. I’m convinced this type of watch will quickly find an audience, and could even revolutionise watch manufacture and design by incorporating technologies taken from robotics, piezoelectric micro-motors in particular.
What makes you think these so-called "radical" watches will catch on?
I think younger buyers are ready to move on from classic designs, and new technologies now give us the means to be creative in a different way. We’re witnessing a growing interest in precision mechanisms: look at how successful the Transformers movies are, where sophisticated machines transform themselves into complex structures. My concept watches fall into the same bag. The UR-202 by Urwerk, which is wound by compressed air, is one example of a watch that makes use of a radically different technology to those usually found in watchmaking.
How do you explain this shift?
Wearing a watch is no longer such a necessity, as we now have cellphones and all kinds of gadgets that give the time. Because of this, we’ve seen a gradual shift in the watch’s function. As well as giving the time, Fine Watches have always been an indication of rank and a reflection of the wearer’s personality. This move towards "radical" watches is simply taking this shift in function a stage further.
What would you like to bring to Fine Watchmaking?
A completely different approach. Watches still comprise a movement inside a case, as though mechanical parts had to be shut away. I’d like to turn this idea on its head, to bring the movement out of the case for all to see.
We can see the movement in a skeleton watch…
Yes, but the concept stays the same. The mechanics are still contained inside the case, the only difference being that they are made visible. I design watches whose mechanics are on the outside, and that involve some kind of interaction with the wearer. I’d like to design a watch which the wearer can use to trigger a series of actions.
So far you’ve only proposed concept watches. How do they tie in with Fine Watches?
Rather than defining themselves as Fine Watches, my watches represent a new way of thinking. Complex mechanics are one characteristic of Fine Watchmaking and my designs follow this logic through by incorporating sophisticated mechanical systems. Anyone who appreciates the complex movement of a classic watch will enjoy the sight of a "radical" watch’s mechanism.
Your watches have connections to brands such as Caterpillar. Why?
I absolutely wanted to detach myself from what’s already there so that my ideas wouldn’t be influenced by or drawn towards an existing concept or style. This is why I chose brands that have no relation whatsoever to watches while giving my concepts a direction. My Caterpillar watch is inspired by bulldozer track and the Brembo watch by brake calipers.
You say your concept watches are ready for production "with a few minor alterations." What, for example?
My watches were produced on a small budget and improvements can be made to reduce friction and energy loss. On the Caterpillar model, for example, the strap needs to be adjusted to fit different-sized wrists. The mechanics, however, are all fully functional. The main difficulty is that none of the parts can be bought from suppliers and therefore have to be custom-made. ■
