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Fifty Fathoms: a legend revisited

Blancpain’s ties with the underwater world go back further than some may imagine. Indeed, in the early 1950s the brand created a diving watch with serious credentials. It now revisits this legend with three models in the Fifty Fathoms family.

Eric Othenin-Girard

Fifty Fathoms is the result of Blancpain’s encounter with two exceptional personalities. In 1952, France’s Ministry of Defence tasked Captain Robert "Bob" Maloubier and Lieutenant Claude Riffaud with the creation of an elite unit of combat divers. As part of this assignment, the two officers turned to Blancpain, following which the Manufacture’s watchmakers and engineers set about designing a mechanical watch that would go on to become an archetypal diving watch. The original Fifty Fathoms was launched in 1953. Its name refers to its water-resistance, guaranteed to a depth of 91.45 metres or fifty fathoms.

This remarkable model quickly forged a reputation among numerous countries’ special forces as a sturdy, reliable watch. It was adopted by oceanographers, in particular the GERS, the French Navy’s renowned underwater research and studies group, and accompanied Jacques Cousteau, Louis Malle and crew when shooting the documentary film The Silent World. In 1997, Blancpain increased Fifty Fathom’s water-resistance to 300 metres.

An eye for detail

The Fifty Fathoms is now the starting-point for an entire collection comprising, in addition to a self-winding model, a flyback chronograph and a flying tourbillon. An opportunity for the brand to demonstrate different expertises in a single watch. All three new models have been given the signature features behind the original model’s renown, in particular the same 300-metre water-resistance, the same outsized hour markers and hands for easy reading, and the same black dial and bezel as a sharp contrast for the luminescent indications. The rotating bezel is still a key feature; its notched form ensures a firm grip while the unidirectional rotation means there can be no risk of inadvertently spending too much time underwater.

Blancpain has also taken care to re-examine each detail of the Fifty Fathoms to ensure the highest level of performance and to perfect its design. So that indications can be read at a glance whatever the circumstances, the Le Brassus Manufacture has selected a new colour for the luminescent coating on the hour markers, bezel markings and hands. The trapezium-shaped hour markers against a black sunburst dial together with the one-minute increments from 0 to 15 on the bezel ensure ease of use. Furthermore, the case is equipped with crown-covers, ensuring greater security for this essential feature.

Precision and solidity above all

Available in steel and in red gold, the self-winding Fifty Fathoms is fitted with a brand-new mechanical movement, entirely developed by Blancpain and exclusive to the brand. The self-winding 1315 Calibre is based on the hand-wound 13R0 Calibre, unveiled in October 2006. Blancpain has added a very dense bi-metallic rotor for excellent winding efficiency. Otherwise the 1315 shares most of the 13R0’s features, in particular the balance which has neither index nor swan’s neck. These are replaced by regulating screws on the balance rim, the perfect solution for a sports watch as knocks can put the index or swan’s neck out of position, which would disturb the rate of the watch. To ensure rate is precisely and effectively adjusted, Blancpain has given these gold micrometric screws square heads so that the watchmaker can more easily visualise corrections as he works.

The balance is made from hard-wearing glucydur, which is heavier than the titanium used in the 13R0. In terms of power reserve, Blancpain aimed to give the movement optimal operating autonomy while ensuring a constant supply of energy at all times. The new 1315 calibre has a five-day power reserve thanks to three series-coupled barrels. The three main springs have been specially calibrated for this movement and its glucydur balance. As a further technical refinement, the fast date change at midnight can be operated in either direction. The large jewels are driven directly into the plates and bridges to preserve the beauty of a traditional movement. The sunray pattern on the bridges is mirrored in that of the rotor. Finally, to prevent any interference from magnetic fields, the 1315 Calibre in the Fifty Fathoms is protected inside a cage. ■

© 2008 All rights reserved

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