From the workbench

The balance spring, a declaration of independence

Flavia Giovanelli - With mechanical movements losing none of their current appeal, numerous brands have set their sights on complete autonomy. Nivarox still has an iron grip on the industry, which relies on the company for its balance-spring supplies. But the worm is turning…

With mechanical movements losing none of their current appeal, numerous brands have set their sights on complete autonomy. Nivarox still has an iron grip on the industry, which relies on the company for its balance-spring supplies. But the worm is turning…

Flavia Giovanelli

When in summer 2002, ETA announced it would cease delivery of ébauches (movement blanks) as of 2006 and supply only finished movements, it certainly put the cat among the pigeons. Some 200 brands, a considerable slice of the profession, had neglected the industrial side of the business for far too long, relying solely on ETA’s willingness to keep Swiss watch companies well-stocked.

The Swatch Group, through its empire, controls up to 80% of finished-movement production, and as much as 90% for essential mechanical movement components including (via Nivarox) balance springs. Even after the cut-off date was put back to 2010, the threat of seeing supplies dry up meant certain companies were forced into action, researching and investing in alternative solutions. Whether structural or technical, here are some of their chosen routes…

Small but perfectly formed

That something so tiny can cause such furor comes down to the balance spring’s crucial function in optimising the performance of a mechanical watch. The accuracy of the watch’s rate is dependent on the regularity with which the regulating organ oscillates. Various factors disrupt this isochronism, such as variations in temperature, shocks, magnetic fields or a flaw in the design or manufacturing of one of the key parts.

As early as 1675, Christiaan Huygens came up with the idea of fitting the regulating organ of watches with a spiral spring that would increase the quality of its oscillations: this was the balance spring. Ever since Huygens’ day, efforts have been made to improve the balance spring and make it lighter. One such crucial advancement came in 1795 when Breguet invented the Breguet overcoil, a balance spring whose terminal curve is raised and turned towards the centre so that the spring expands and contracts concentrically. Despite being three times the height of a flat spring, the Breguet overcoil remains a favourite among watchmakers today.

Necessity being the mother of invention…

For a long time, Nivarox held a virtual monopoly on the supply of balance springs to an industry reluctant to take the plunge. Its power and experience kept the company, part of the Swatch Group, several steps ahead. Add to this the fact that companies weren’t falling over themselves to invest the necessary millions and work through complex test procedures. Since the Biel-based group dealt the fatal blow, everything has changed. Many brands, beginning with the ones at the top of the pyramid, have become convinced of the need for self-sufficiency… meaning the capacity to make balance springs. Some interesting initiatives have ensued, although for the moment they remain within each company’s four walls. A true competitor to Nivarox has therefore yet to see the light of day. Even Rolex, said to be fully self-sufficient, doesn’t manufacture regulating organs for sale.

Parmigiani Fleurier scored valuable points in 2005 when it unveiled its oscillator to the press. After five years’ development and total investments of over CHF 100 million, the company, which is based in Le Val-de-Travers, now masters production of the regulating organ and has set itself a long-term goal of some 50,000 pieces. This marks an important stage in the brand’s growth, made possible thanks to the support of its principal shareholder, the Sandoz Family Foundation.

Technotime enters the fray

On a smaller scale, another story with a happy end comes from Technotime. When the company, based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, bought France Ebauches, a major ébauche manufacturer in the 1970s, it saved the company, and its coveted expertise, from liquidation. After a lot of hard work, in January Technotime’s CEO Philippe Marti confirmed that the company was 100% autonomous and manufacturing balance springs. Asked whether the company intended one day selling its production he replied, "We are firmly positioned at the high end of the market. We could never compete with ETA. Nor do we want to."

These initiatives alone are proof that the profession is capable of fighting back, which should in the long term lead to a far more diverse offer.

A promising technological breakthrough

From structural adaptation to technology: 2006 was marked by a partnership between three of the major players - Patek Philippe, Breguet and Rolex - who pooled certain resources to test the feasibility of silicon balance springs. Set to revolutionise mechanical movements, this very hard material has exceptional properties that could significantly improve precision and reliability. Patek Philippe was the first to unveil its innovation last year: the Spiromax® is the first balance spring made from a silicon-based material. This new step forward for the Manufacture came just a year after it unveiled its silicon escape wheel.

Machined as a single piece, the Spiromax® weighs just 2.37g/cm3. Such exceptional lightness means that in the event of a shock, the spring is virtually unaffected by inertia. For this reason it continues to expand and contract concentrically. This means there is no degradation of rate accuracy, thanks to which the watch maintains greater precision. Patek Philippe says it is highly satisfied with results to date. As for Breguet, the brand has unveiled two new calibres featuring its own silicon-based balance spring.

In a word, while the Swatch Group still holds a sword over the industry’s head, the more time passes and the more companies will be in a position to answer back. ■

© 2007 All rights reserved

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