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10 watches that rule the roost
New Models

10 watches that rule the roost

Friday, 27 January 2017
By The FHH Journal editors
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The FHH Journal editors

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4 min read

The unmistakable sound of this most flamboyant fowl has rung out on Saturday January 28th to mark the beginning of Chinese New Year. Until February 15th 2018, the Fire Rooster will colour our mood – and the dials of our watches – with its bright plumage and proud stance. Plenty for watchmakers to crow about!

Blancpain Traditional Chinese Calendar Limited Edition Year of the Rooster

Whereas others make lavish use of the métiers d’art to depict their rooster, Blancpain prefers to focus on the Chinese calendar and its indications: hours, minutes, months with leap month, signs of the zodiac, the five elements and the ten celestial stems. Yin and Yang symbols punctuate the Grand Feu enamel dial. Of course, the rooster is not entirely absent as it parades on the back of this 45mm watch in engraved form.

Blancpain Traditional Chinese Calendar Limited Edition Year of the Rooster
Blancpain Traditional Chinese Calendar Limited Edition Year of the Rooster
Bovet Amadeo Fleurier Monsieur Bovet Rooster

Here is a watch that adapts to its owner’s mood, thanks to the Amadeo convertible case. On the one hand, a classic timepiece that shows off its hand-wound mechanism. On the other, a watch that reveals the extreme refinement of miniature painting on mother-of-pearl. Beneath the colourful feathers of this proud rooster lies a power reserve worthy of mention, lasting a full seven days.

Bovet Amadeo Fleurier Monsieur Bovet Rooster
Bovet Amadeo Fleurier Monsieur Bovet Rooster
Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Rooster

At Chopard, traditions are to be respected, and so each Chinese New Year is an opportunity for its craftsmen to express their creativity. To reproduce the multicoloured plumage of this rooster, Chopard called on the skills of Grand Master Urushi Minori Koizumi, of the celebrated Japanese studio Yamada Heiando. Precious lacquer work enriched with mother-of-pearl inlay adds to the splendour of this magnificent creature.

Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Rooster
Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Rooster
Harry Winston Premier Rooster Automatic 36mm

The rooster represents the masculine force of Yang, and so Harry Winston has chosen to surround its bird with white magnolias, symbolising the feminine energy of Yin. This harmonious combination – the promise of a zen year? – is depicted through the time-honoured tradition of Grand Feu enamel, and produced as a limited edition of eight.

Harry Winston Premier Rooster Automatic 36mm
Harry Winston Premier Rooster Automatic 36mm
Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Rooster

The tenth animal in the Chinese zodiac enchants this Petite Heure Minute, which combines volumes of red gold and its unique light with a jadeite and white mother-of-pearl dial that has been hand-engraved in the Jaquet Droz workshops. Just 28 of this intricately detailed miniature sculpture will be made.

Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Rooster
Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Rooster
Piaget Altiplano Chinese Zodiac

Piaget has entrusted the making of this limited edition of 38 to one of the most highly respected enamel artists, Anita Porchet. Majestic, vibrant, full of flourish, the rooster appears ready to jump out from the Grand Feu cloisonné enamel dial. An exuberant portrait, executed with infinite refinement, for this watch that is powered by the hand-wound ultra-thin 430P calibre.

Piaget Altiplano Chinese Zodiac
Piaget Altiplano Chinese Zodiac
Panerai Luminor 1950 Sealand 3 Days Automatic Acciaio – 44mm

After the Ox, the Tiger, the Rabbit, the Dragon, the Snake, the Horse, the Goat, and the Monkey, Panerai adds the Rooster to its repertoire of Chinese Zodiac animals. The Italian firm has chosen traditional Chinese iconography for its interpretation. The cover is hand-engraved using the ancient “sparsello” technique, in which grooves are incised in the steel then inlaid with multiple layers of gold threads. This rare expertise lends great beauty to the 99 pieces in this special edition.

Panerai Luminor 1950 Sealand 3 Days Automatic Acciaio – 44mm
Panerai Luminor 1950 Sealand 3 Days Automatic Acciaio – 44mm
Ulysse Nardin Classico Year of the Rooster

Strikingly adorned with champlevé enamel feathers, the rooster parades on the dial of this Classico watch, proposed as a limited edition of 88. Only a handful of specialists master the champlevé technique, whereby hollows are cut directly into the metal of the dial using a graver. These are filled with enamel whose palette of colours is achieved through precise blends of metal oxides. The enamel is then fired until it melts, following which the dial is smoothed and polished. The final and most delicate stage is to add detail to the design by chasing the surface of the metal.

Ulysse Nardin Classico Year of the Rooster
Ulysse Nardin Classico Year of the Rooster
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac Year of the Rooster

Hallmarked with the Poinçon de Genève, these two watches, produced as limited editions of 12 to celebrate the Year of the Fire Rooster, again call upon the beauty of the métiers d’art. Grand Feu enamel and engraving come together on the dial of these two timepieces, in pink gold or in platinum. The mechanism is on a par with the stunning decoration. Powered by an automatic movement, hours, minutes, day and date are shown in four apertures, freeing the requisite space on the dial for the craftsmen to express their skill.

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac Year of the Rooster
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac Year of the Rooster
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