A feminine touch at Chanel

While numerous brands are this year issuing collections specifically aimed at women, for Chanel the “fairer sex” has long been at the centre of all things horological. “Remember that the very first Chanel watch, the aptly-named Première which we unveiled in 1987, already broke with convention,” recalls Nicolas Beau, international head of watches at Chanel. “At that time, women had the choice between gem-set watches or a smaller version of watches originally intended for men. The Première, whose case is modelled on the contours of Place Vendôme and the stopper of the N°5 perfume bottle, was designed specifically as a watch for women and represented a powerful phenomenon from the time it was launched. This year we are returning to the Première, presented with a flying tourbillon in 2012 and now proposed in two versions with precious stones.”

Mechanical movements are not an end in themselves

That Chanel chose to release the Première Flying Tourbillon, whose mechanism was designed exclusively for the brand by Renaud & Papi, is very much the consequence of the success the model has enjoyed from its very first appearance. Otherwise, the brand has never considered mechanical movements as a goal in themselves. “We believe that the mechanics of a timepiece must always serve to enhance its beauty,” says Nicolas Beau. “They’re an additional asset, you might say. The appeal a mechanical movement has for our women customers is really a question of culture, hence why we share our collections equally between quartz and mechanical.”

As Mr Beau goes on to explain, “this is also evident in how we produce our watches. We decide on the functions we wish to propose, the materials and the design before considering which movement we will put inside. This summer we’ll be presenting a collection of timepieces with moonphases. In this case, mechanical was the logical choice. We are also bringing a J12 Chromatic Retrograde Mystérieuse to Baselworld. This shows that the Chanel name is very much at home in the world of Fine Watch complications, and that we have a clientele who appreciate this type of product, in particular affluent individuals who admire the work of Julio Papi.”

2013 is also the tenth anniversary of the first white ceramic J12, an event the company is commemorating with two new versions: one with diamonds and the other, the J12 White Phantom, in two sizes, 33mm and 38mm, proposed as two limited editions of 2,000. “Black ceramic, followed by white ceramic and then our Chromatic titanium ceramic offer wonderful opportunities to be creative with watches that combine classicism with the avant-garde,” comments Nicolas Beau. “Ceramic has since become more widespread in watchmaking, and it’s no coincidence that the J12 was quick to make its mark as an iconic design. Originally qualified as a fashion watch, it has since won esteem. Although we initially designed the J12 for men, it soon conquered a new clientele of women and this is reflected in the models we’re presenting this year.” Completing the line-up is the Mademoiselle Privée collection, launched in 2012. Its dials and cases are a canvas for gem-setting and the artistic crafts. Anita Porchet, the gifted enamel artist who hand-painted the ten Décor Coromandel watches that were a highlight of last year has this year produced ten new masterpieces. Particularly noteworthy is a model with embroidered dial. Such exclusivity goes well with the selective distribution the brand has chosen, limited to 450 retailers around the globe. Another way to keep the dream alive.