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A festival of colour at Watches and Wonders
Watches and Wonders

A festival of colour at Watches and Wonders

Friday, 23 April 2021
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Christophe Roulet
Editor-in-chief, HH Journal

“The desire to learn is the key to understanding.”

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5 min read

Watches for her, watches for him, there is less of a clear-cut distinction among the year’s releases. The emphasis is more on emotional appeal as new colours enter the spectrum.

Colour is the common denominator for women’s watches this year. But should we really be talking about women’s watches? While certain styles, gem-set models in particular, are effectively designed and made for a lady’s wrist, the gender lines are blurring. This welcome evolution has given watchmakers plenty of creative freedom, as revealed at Watches and Wonders.

A. Lange & Söhne Little Lange 1 Moon Phase

The moon and stars come out to play on this Little Lange 1, thanks to the tiny particles of copper contained in the blue aventurine glass that has been cast onto the solid silver dial. This elegant countenance surrounds a precision moon phase display that requires a single adjustment of one day every 122 years.

Little Lange 1 Moon Phase © A. Lange & Söhne
Little Lange 1 Moon Phase © A. Lange & Söhne
Baume & Mercier Hampton

A homage to the early twentieth-century Art Deco movement, Baume & Mercier’s Hampton comes as four new silhouettes, mixing and matching shapes, materials and most of all colours, courtesy of interchangeable straps in a whole host of bright shades. The satin-brushed opaline green dial shown here brings a cheery splash of colour to every day.

Hampton © Baume & Mercier
Hampton © Baume & Mercier
Bulgari Diva’s Dream Divissima and Allegra

Exuberance and joie de vivre are at the heart of Bulgari’s new cocktail watches. Quintessentially Bulgari with coloured gemstones expertly set into bold designs, these jewelled creations are a precious enchantment for an explosion of colour and insouciance.

Diva’s Dream Divissima et Allegra © Bulgari
Diva’s Dream Divissima et Allegra © Bulgari
Chopard L.U.C Esprit de Fleurier Peony

The peony and its luscious blooms are an endless source of inspiration for Chopard, celebrated since 2014 in limited editions that give free rein to the métiers d’art. For this latest interpretation in ethically sourced gold, Grand Feu enamel takes the starring role on the dial. As for the movement, it is decorated with Fleurisane engraving.

L.U.C Esprit de Fleurier Peony © Chopard
L.U.C Esprit de Fleurier Peony © Chopard
Chronoswiss Flying Regulator Open Gear Pink Panther

Everyone loves the Pink Panther and his inimitable ways. Chronoswiss prefers to explore pink’s less well-known connotations in this new model whose stunning guilloché dial is the vivid pink backdrop for a regulator-style display in three dimensions. What better way to add some panther suave to a world of precision.

Flying Regulator Open Gear Pink Panther © Chronoswiss
Flying Regulator Open Gear Pink Panther © Chronoswiss
Corum Admiral 38 automatic

For ladies torn between a sports watch and a more relaxed style, Corum has the answer. Cased in titanium with a sapphire back to show off the mechanical movement, this Admiral is water-resistant to 100 metres and mounted on a rubber strap. A pink dial finished with Corum’s Grenadier Fendu motif and a twelve-sided bezel set with diamonds are the added spark on a very classy watch.

Admiral 38 automatic © Corum
Admiral 38 automatic © Corum
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One Precious Flowers

The Reverso is the centre of attention in this, its 90th year, with four Precious Flowers designs, each one a masterpiece of enamelling, engraving and gem-setting. Inspired by 1920s jewellery designs, they celebrate the beauty of flowers. The model shown here blossoms with a pink arum, a symbol of admiration and appreciation… for Jaeger-LeCoultre?

Reverso One Precious Flowers © Jaeger-LeCoultre
Reverso One Precious Flowers © Jaeger-LeCoultre
Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Vivienne

Louis Vuitton first introduced us to Vivienne, a character inspired by the brand’s heritage and its iconic Monogram flowers, in 2017. Twelve tiny Viviennes reappear this year as the rotating hour indicators on the Tambour Spin Time. A scattering of diamonds adds to the watch’s lighter-than-air feel.

Tambour Spin Time Air Vivienne © Louis Vuitton
Tambour Spin Time Air Vivienne © Louis Vuitton
Nomos Club Campus absolute grey and future orange

Distinctly Bauhaus, Nomos’s Club Campus collection is aimed at young graduates starting out in life. Robust, affordable, functional, mechanical and plain fun, they are built to survive all-night parties as well as long hours of study. Firmly attached to the wrist, they are a reminder of past achievements and success yet to come. All in contemporary colours.

Club Campus absolute grey and future orange © Nomos
Club Campus absolute grey and future orange © Nomos
Piaget Limelight Gala High Jewellery

With a case and bracelet in white gold set with 91 brilliant-cut diamonds and 83 marquise-cut emeralds surrounding a black opal dial, this Limelight Gala High Jewellery, driven by a quartz movement, is unmistakably Piaget – a brand that knows how to use its consummate mastery of the métiers d’art to make the world a brighter place.

Limelight Gala Haute Joaillerie © Piaget
Limelight Gala Haute Joaillerie © Piaget
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Glow Me Up!

As unconventional as ever, Roger Dubuis has imagined a world-first for the Excalibur Glow Me Up!, namely diamonds around the bezel that glow in different colours after dark. The secret is a patented process in which luminescent material is added to the grooves that secure the precious stones. Lights out!

Excalibur Glow Me Up! © Roger Dubuis
Excalibur Glow Me Up! © Roger Dubuis
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36

Rolex presents three colourful, gem-set versions of the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 in yellow gold, white gold and Everose gold. The case is fully set with 254 diamonds, the bezel with 52 diamonds and the dial is paved with a further 450 diamonds. Hour markers in shades of coral, turquoise or burgundy coordinate with the straps. All three are a lesson in prestige and refinement.

Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 © Rolex
Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 © Rolex
Tank Louis Cartier

Created in 1917, the Tank has inspired multiple variations. They include, since 1922, the Tank Louis Cartier with its elongated case, slimmer brancards and softened edges. A true classic, recognisable by its railroad scale, sapphire cabochon and Roman numerals, the Tank Louis Cartier laid the foundations for a signature style that continues in this year’s colour-rich versions.

Tank Louis Cartier
Tank Louis Cartier
Zenith Defy Spectrum Orange

While others delight in painting dials in vivid hues, Zenith takes the opposite tack by incorporating colour everywhere except the dial. The 1/100th of a second chronograph movement, the precious stones on the bezel and the coordinating strap set the tone for these Spectrum watches: a new take on kinetic art by Zenith.

Defy Spectrum Orange © Zenith
Defy Spectrum Orange © Zenith
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