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The need to rethink advertising
Point of View

The need to rethink advertising

Tuesday, 08 September 2015
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Franco Cologni
President of the FHH Cultural Council

“Talent demands effort, dedication and hours spent perfecting a gesture which, day by day, becomes a gift.”

An entrepreneur at heart, though a man of letters, Franco Cologni was quick to embark on a business career that would lead him to key roles within the Richemont Group.

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2 min read

When browsing the autumn issues of the glossy magazines, we come across page after page of adverts by luxury Maisons (or those that aspire to the title) promoting their latest inspirations.

Season after season, top photographers interpret the DNA of more or less storied brands through more or less convincing representations of more or less renowned styles for men or women, with the aim of persuading more or less knowledgeable customers of the merits of the more or less attractive products they are meant to desire – then obviously buy.

Now try covering up the logos on these ads. Could you honestly say, at a glance, which brand it is? I certainly can’t, and I’ve been in the business fifty years. Simply because there are too many common denominators shared by an overwhelming number of brands: on each page, the same supermodel styled in more or less the same way poses against a more or less identical background for the same photographer, to interpret a different brand. But different in what way?

How can a photo be used to convey the wealth of beauty, research and craftsmanship that lies behind a timepiece?

Whereas fashion can explore a rich and evocative visual narrative for its communication, watch and jewellery brands are in a very different position. How can a photo be used to convey the wealth of beauty, research and craftsmanship that lies behind a timepiece? On the one hand we have celebrities who speak with great conviction about their love of this or that brand, though only after signing an elaborate contract and pocketing a large sum of money. Then there are the product shots, which tend to blur into one. In this age of instant digital communication, surely brands can come up with something more sophisticated to hold our attention? Lastly we have the lifestyle angle, with country piles, select gatherings, throne rooms, luxurious limousines or boats weathering the storm. But what do customers want to see? How do they wish their emotions to be stirred?

We want for nothing, except to dream. In a world dominated by creativity, a notion which seemingly extends to all forms of thinking and communication, changing images should be a simple enough task and one which should and could originate with luxury. Instead of which we stick with what we have defined as mimetic isomorphism: repetition, more of the same, déjà vu. Considering the financial, cultural and aesthetic means at our disposal, it seems to me the time has come to turn a corner and find a new way to communicate what really drives sales: identity.

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