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Eric Cantona sees red… and yellow, and blue.
New Models

Eric Cantona sees red… and yellow, and blue.

Friday, 22 January 2016
By The FHH Journal editors
The FHH Journal editors

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3 min read

Known for his short fuse, his straight talking and his huge generosity, Hautlence’s charismatic ambassador has co-signed the Vortex Primary, which like Cantona himself isn’t lacking in colour.

Inspired by post-modern architecture and deconstructivism, the three-dimensional case of the Vortex Primary showcases facetted structures embellished with coloured glass that allow a view of the complex movement from all sides. Recalling the splendour of stained glass windows, this state-of-the-art case is crafted out of black PVD-coated grade 5 titanium and highlights a total of 19 different coloured glass panels, creating an eye-catching mosaic of shades. Hautlence and Cantona chose a mix of materials in primary colours to create this vibrant design, which includes five transparent sapphire crystals, two semi-transparent sapphire crystals, four red ruby glass panels, five blue spinel glass panels and three yellow corundum glass panels. These windows reveal parts of the impressive movement from all sides of the case and let light through to focus on the mechanism. Besides its creative design, the case also weighs a remarkable 48 grams, making the timepiece both attractive and comfortable to wear.

In addition to its colourful exterior, the Vortex Primary stands out from the rest of the collection thanks to its lack of a dial. The retrograde minutes are placed directly on the sapphire crystal of the case, with the half-trailing hours indicated through Hautlence’s signature jumping hour chain system that advances as time passes by. A power reserve indicator is portrayed in red at three o’ clock, while the movement’s regulating organ is on full display at six o’ clock as it rotates 60 degrees every 60 minutes. Such a dynamic design gives the timepiece a new look every hour.

Three patents for an exceptional timepiece

Powering the Vortex Primary is the same movement as the Vortex, a reinterpreted and redesigned version of the innovative in-house automatic calibre HL2.0 presented in the first Concept d’Exception in 2010. Angled at 90 degrees, the new in-house automatic calibre HLR2.0 is protected by three Hautlence patents. The first patent pertains to the 12-link chain of the half-trailing hours, which smoothly turns in 3 to 4 seconds every 60 minutes to display the hour. Such a system differs from an instant system that switches the hours too quickly for one to truly appreciate and from a dragging system whereby time cannot be easily read between the hours. The half-trailing hours system rotates effortlessly without losing energy and displays the beauty of the movement and its mechanisms in action. The second patent relates to the regulating organ integrated into the mobile bridge-type movement. Its constantly changing position, driven by the display, compensates statistically for the effects of gravity, thus enhancing its precision. The third patent is linked to the operation of the movement’s two barrels. The main barrel is wound by the automatic-winding system of the movement and transfers the necessary energy to wind a second barrel that is dedicated exclusively to driving the complication. The main barrel continuously winds the second barrel so as to ensure that energy remains at an optimal level to change each hour. This ensures that these complex systems remain powered independently without impacting the precision of the watch.

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