Hautlence, ten years and counting!

In a few well-chosen words, Bill Muirhead, CEO of MELB Holding which acquired Hautlence in 2012, summed up the company’s ambitions: “Hautlence has always been first and foremost a product. Now we are to become a brand.” The tenth anniversary of the firm, celebrated early September in Neuchâtel (the Swiss canton whose anagram gave the Hautlence name), was the perfect opportunity to set out in detail what looks every inch like a fresh start. Without dwelling too much on the past, industry observers will remember how, after a meteoric rise in 2004, Hautlence was put through the wringer until the arrival, in 2011, of MELB, an investment company headed by Georges-Henri Meylan, the retired CEO of Audemars Piguet who clearly had no intention of completely pulling out of the watchmaking world.

Now joined by "King Eric"

“Initial contact with Guillaume Tetu, the only original shareholder still at the head of Hautlence, was through my son, who was based in Hong Kong,” commented Meylan. “He represented Hautlence in that part of Asia but had yet to sell a single one of its watches. With bankruptcy imminent, we stepped in and took over the company in 2012. Needless to say, we faced quite a challenge. Turning the situation around took more time and money than we had expected as we had to rethink everything from top to bottom, from the collections to production, marketing and communication. We’re on the right track now, in fact we’ve recently embarked on a new stage, personified by the partnership with Eric Cantona.” Lips are sealed as to the exact amount invested by MELB Holding, which bought Hautlence, debts included, for a symbolic one Swiss franc, although Georges-Henri Meylan has put the figure closer to the five million than the one million mark.

Fortunately Eric Cantona had a lot more to say about what motivated him to take on this new role, which Hautlence is convinced he’s cut out to play. One of football’s biggest stars in the 1990s, and now actor, director, artist and photographer, “King Eric’s” forthright and uncompromising personality has always lifted him above the crowd. These are also qualities which mean a lot to Hautlence. “Personally, I’m extremely proud of this partnership,” declared Cantona, who was clearly fascinated to learn that in Fine Watchmaking, even the parts no-one will ever see are meticulously decorated. “I’ve discovered a creative brand and a company on a human scale. Basically, Hautlence has introduced me to a world apart which nurtures a very unique, almost obsessive relationship with time. I’ve also met the kind of people I like. It’s a wonderful family and an immense pleasure for me to work with them.”

Gentlemen Rebels Club

Eric Cantona was determined to be more than a famous face paying lip service to the brand, and was only prepared to take up Hautlence’s offer on condition he would contribute to artistic creation. The brand, delighted by such a show of interest, was only too happy to oblige. Enter Eric Cantona watch designer. The first model to be signed by his hand is the Invictus Morphos Limited Edition, the very first Hautlence chronograph, driven by a Dubois Dépraz 293 skeleton movement on a Soprod A10 base. Says the brand, “the dial of the Invictus chronograph bears the colour and iridescent reflections of the magnificent blue butterfly for which it is named, while mother-of-pearl insets subtly illuminated with black decals emulate the markings on its wings.” Silvered hour numerals feature on the sapphire intermediate dial, one of the hallmarks of the brand which brings depth but also the lightness that befits the butterfly theme. This launch, in a limited edition of 250, also heralds a new segmentation for Hautlence whose timepieces, backed by four in-house calibres, were positioned at prices even the most die-hard fans could find prohibitive.

Not so today. As Georges-Henri Meylan was at pains to point out, Hautlence watches are now offered at a third their former price. While the Concept and Atelier segments continue to cover the very high end of the market, the brand is now banking on its Signature collections, with models priced between CHF 20,000 and 30,000: the Morphos is first in line. The brand has announced its aim to take annual production to 1,000 pieces for 2017. Doubtless Eric Cantona will be making his contribution. As well as putting his stamp on models currently in the development stage – they will follow the Morphos Limited Edition, timed to coincide with the brand’s tenth anniversary – he also fronts the new Cross The Line campaign. Backing the campaign will be a travelling exhibition to showcase Hautlence watches, presented alongside street art from Eric Cantona’s private collection. Hautlence is also introducing its Gentlemen Rebels Club whose members are all Hautlence timepiece owners. One way to drive home the fact that, from now on, Hautlence is not just a product but a brand, with its own frame of mind.