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Hermès – For the gentleman dandy
New Models

Hermès – For the gentleman dandy

Friday, 15 April 2016
By The FHH Journal editors
The FHH Journal editors

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3 min read

Members of the suit brigade know that a watch tucked inside the pocket is the height of horological elegance. Hermès presents two new interpretations that combine style, precision and expertise.

Pocket plein cuir d’Hermès

The Pocket plein cuir watch by Hermès stems from the mystery of leather and watchmaking skills. At once classic and contemporary, it features a surprising fastening system and an equally unusual leather sheath. This horological object harmoniously associates the science of time measurement with the art of travel and leather craftsmanship. Two saddle-making techniques are combined in this timepiece: through-seam stitching and so- “full-grain leather”. The latter consist of superimposing several layers of leather to create a six- millimetre thickness smoothly encasing the watch. The artisan begins with the short leather ribbon from to hang the pocket watch, which is shaped to form a loop. He then adds another sturdier layer of cowhide on either side, and each is then covered with a f inely-cut piece of smooth, dyed alligator giving the f inal appearance to its two faces.

Hermès Pocket Plein Cuir
Hermès Pocket Plein Cuir © Sandro Campardo

The watch itself is also created in the Hermès workshops. Its 750 white gold case frames a precious and rare dial crafted using the ancient Grand Feu enamel technique that implies several manual operations. In addition to manufacturing and preparing the metal base, enamelling involves successively firings at around 800°C. These stages serve to melt the glass powder – white for the base and black for the Roman numerals – which then solidifies onto the metal. The Pocket plein cuir is powered by the Manufacture Hermès H1912 movement crafted in Switzerland. The special ‘sprinkling of Hs’ motif adorning this mechanical self-winding calibre is visible through a transparent sapphire crystal case-back. This generous 54mm-diameter model complemented by a white gold bow is available in three colours: burgundy, elegant grey and sapphire blue.

Slim d'Hermes Pocket Panthere
Slim d'Hermes Pocket Panthere © Claude Joray
Slim d’Hermès Pocket Panthère

Echoing the Hermès annual theme for 2016: “Nature at full gallop”, the great cat featured on the dial of the Slim d’Hermès Pocket Panthère is drawn from an illustration by the artist Robert Dallet, who cooperated with the Maison in the 1980s.

The panther glides its way onto a winter background. Crafted by two masters of engraving and enamel, it stems from a new artistic approach. Building on their respective experience, they combine their skills in an original way. Before work began, each detail of the motif was studied in order def ine the passages of the engraver’s graving tool and of the enameller’s brush. Together, these artisans break free of the constraints and limitations imposed by their techniques in order to create a vibrantly beautiful work. Materials, shimmering ref lections combine to form a harmoniously balanced whole.

Beating inside the Slim d’Hermès Pocket Panthère is the ultra-thin 2.6 mm H1950 calibre delivering a 42-hour power reserve. Automatic winding is ensured by a technically complex micro-rotor. The finishes, including hand-chamfered bridge, reflect profound respect for watchmaking traditions and like all Hermès movements, Calibre H1950 is adorned with a “sprinkling of Hs” motif.

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