Hip-hop horology

While hip-hop fashion may still be heavily influenced by the urban streetwear that Run D.M.C are often credited with introducing, you are now just as likely to hear a rapper mention Louis Vuitton or Gucci, as you are Adidas. Although in the 90s many of these luxury fashion houses may have feared being associated with hip-hop culture – as Source Magazine’s Julia Chance stated “they think that if their clothes are celebrated in the black, urban community, with all its ills, that it will cheapen their brand names” – many would now like nothing more than to be associated with Kanye or Pharrell. In fact, hip-hop culture has become so ingrained within luxury fashion that you’re likely to see Jay Z and Beyoncé on the front row of Fashion Week with the likes of Anna Wintour.

The Importance of Iced Watches

As the line between hip-hop streetwear and luxury fashion styles becomes more blurred, there has been a notable evolution in hip-hop culture’s approach to jewellery. Even before Cash Money Millionaires made the term ‘bling’ popular in 1999, gold chains and copious amounts of diamonds had been highly popular with hip-hop stars such as Notorious B.I.G. For many rappers, the ‘iced’ watch became a trademark piece, with Birdman perhaps taking the top spot as having the most outrageously ‘bling’ timepiece – a $1.5 million Chopard crafted in luxurious 18k white gold and fully iced-out with rounded VVS1 diamonds.

Even as many contemporary hip-hop fashion styles attempt to shift away from the excessive bling look, the iced-out watch is still adored by many – Lil Wayne has his own white gold and diamond-encrusted Chopard (although his is only worth a tasty $1 million) and Rick Ross has several bling timepieces, including a Hublot Big Bang with white diamonds. However, for many of those within hip-hop, merely owning a high-end diamond Swiss timepiece is not enough. While Jay Z may still be proclaiming that the dial of his Audemars Piguet is “hidden behind all these big rocks”, his collection of watches reflects a much deeper connection with the world of horology.

The Hip-Hop Horologists

In the past, the watch for hip-hop was just another piece of jewellery to reflect wealth and status. However, emerging from within hip-hop culture are certain figures who are establishing themselves as truly knowledgeable watch collectors. Perhaps the most renowned is Jay Z, who boasts an impressive collection. While the standout may be the slightly extravagant $5 million Hublot Big Bang that Beyoncé bought him for his 43rd birthday (a stunning watch with a full-coated diamond case and dial), Jay Z’s collection includes much subtler models – including both a gold and platinum Rolex Day Date, a Richard Mille RM027 and an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore. When in 2013 he collaborated with Hublot on a new model based on the Classic Fusion, he opted for simplicity over extravagance – deciding to release his Shawn Carter watch in a sharp all-black ceramic model and a clean yellow gold version.

While both Nas and Tinie Tempah are known to be watch enthusiasts, the other truly renowned collector in hip-hop culture is former College Dropout and now leading luxury aficionado Kanye West. When not publicising his own collection, Kanye will often be found proclaiming his love for the likes of Ralph Lauren and Louis Vuitton. And alongside his erratic passion for fashion is a rather impressive watch collection. Though many focus on his extravagant custom Gold Tiret model (that features the rapper’s face plastered on the dial), his gold Rolex Daytona and custom all-black Submariner truly reflect his refined taste for timepieces – which is crucial if Kanye wishes to convey cultural capital and establish himself as a reputable figure in the fashion industry.

Hip-Hop: The New Face of Luxury

No longer does combining luxury high-end fashion with hip-hop ethos seem like a fantasy, but actually something entirely desirable. From Piaget teaming up with R&B superstar Rihanna to promote their Polo watches, to Pharrell designing jewellery for Louis Vuitton, and Kanye introducing Vuitton to the world of sneakers, hip-hop culture has become well-established within the world of luxury. With new fashionistas such as model and Tag Heuer ambassador Cara Delevigne now taking style cues from hip-hop culture, we can only expect a greater connection between dressed-down urban wear and the world of high-end fashion design.

While watches are perhaps not quite at the forefront of hip-hop style, the role they play in allowing figures within the culture to establish themselves as credible luxury socialites is crucial. The right watch not only denotes a knowledge of style, but also an appreciation for craftsmanship.