That this is a perpetual calendar (definition here) isn’t immediately obvious. How do you read the month? Where’s the leap year? As you ponder the mesmerising midnight blue fumé dial, suddenly the ingenuity, the harmony, the sheer user-friendliness jumps out. Bathed in this intimate, soothing atmosphere, it all makes sense: 12 hours on a dial, 12 months in the year. The tiny central hand infers the month by way of the direction it points: seven o’clock means it’s July. Mystification gives way to admiration for such a simple and effective solution. The date, at 3 o’clock, is hardly a model of discretion, sized to facilitate read-off. Facing it we find the power-reserve indicator whose hand wends its way downwards as the manual-wind movement reaches the end of its seven-day autonomy.
For this watch to qualify as a perpetual calendar, one final element is required: a leap-year indicator. Which again is revealed only after careful observation. In order to preserve the clean lines of the dial, the four-year cycle is only visible from the back, almost hidden in the movement. Master of minimalism, H. Moser & Cie thus presents a design of the utmost purity.
The absence of any inscription on the dial is coherent with this desire for sobriety. Only the brand’s name on the movement and a subtle logo on the crown make it possible to trace the watch’s origins. Once more, H. Moser & Cie goes against the grain of a long-established tradition and, in doing so, makes a stance against over-branding.
To house the HMC 800 calibre, the brand has renewed the housing of its Endeavour collection. With a larger 42mm diameter, more dynamic contours and a curved back, this white gold case brings maximum comfort on the wrist.
“Simple, effective, understated, authentic” is how the brand describes this watch on its website. An ode to aesthetic purity, these four words encapsulate the DNA of this 50-piece limited edition. A timepiece which, by eschewing excess, reveals its essence.