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Khaki watches on parade
Trend Forecaster

Khaki watches on parade

Thursday, 11 February 2021
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Christophe Roulet
Editor-in-chief, HH Journal

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5 min read

For brands wishing to hark back to the wristwatch’s military past, what better than a touch of khaki? Atten-shun!

Watches for the military have always conformed to strict specifications regarding precision and legibility, though never colour. Green is not a required trait, except perhaps on certain NATO straps to match camouflage gear. Not so today: brands steer clear of the battlefield but not battledress with a plethora of green watches. Not every watch is designed to take on the toughest missions but they can all stand to attention on civvy street. Here are twelve examples of watches that go crazy for khaki.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph - 44 mm

Black and green ceramic for the case, bezel and pushers; a fumé green dial with a “Méga Tapisserie” pattern; a green textured rubber strap: this new Royal Oak Offshore chronograph is a green machine that tracks time with the utmost precision, thanks to the robust and reliable in-house 3126/3840 calibre.

Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph - 44 mm © Audemars Piguet
Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph - 44 mm © Audemars Piguet
Bell & Ross BR 03-92 MA-1

Bell & Ross takes inspiration from the iconic MA-1 flight jacket. Originally worn by United States Air Force pilots, it made the move to a different kind of runway as a fashion item. On the BR 03-92 MA-1, the sandwich dial’s bottom insert is orange, like the jacket’s lining. Dark khaki ceramic for the case plus a reversible khaki/orange strap confirm its military style.

BR 03-92 MA-1 © Bell & Ross
BR 03-92 MA-1 © Bell & Ross
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Mokarran Limited Edition

Among watch brands, Blancpain is certainly one of the most active contributors to ocean exploration and conservation. One of its most recent initiatives was to fund a study by the Mokarran Protection Society, based in French Polynesia, of the great hammerhead shark. This limited-edition dive watch with ceramic case and green dial supports this effort.

Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Mokarran Limited Edition © Blancpain
Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Mokarran Limited Edition © Blancpain
Breitling Avenger Chronograph 45 Night Mission

Breitling has been giving fresh impetus to its Avenger collection, which is as intrepid as its name suggests. A stalwart of the brand’s “Air” category (alongside the Aviator 8 and the Navitimer), Avenger watches are for aerial adventurers. Or at least those who aim to achieve the extraordinary, with this Night Mission in titanium on their wrist.

Avenger Chronograph 45 Night Mission © Breitling
Avenger Chronograph 45 Night Mission © Breitling
Hublot Big Bang Unico Italia Independent

For this second collaboration with the Italia Independent design studio, Hublot brings its art of fusion to carbon fibre and Texalium®, transposing the lightness and resistance of carbon to the high-shine colours of Texalium®. This Big Bang Unico rocks a camo pattern for bad boys made good.

Big Bang Unico Italia Independent © Hublot
Big Bang Unico Italia Independent © Hublot
IWC Big Pilot's Watch Big Date Spitfire Edition “Mission Accomplished”

Between August and December 2019, two British pilots flew a Silver Spitfire around the world, with the support of IWC. To commemorate the successful completion of this record-breaking journey, in 2020 the brand unveiled a Big Pilot’s Watch with green dial and bronze case as a limited edition of 500 pieces.

Big Pilot’s Watch Big Date Spitfire Edition Mission Accomplished © IWC
Big Pilot’s Watch Big Date Spitfire Edition Mission Accomplished © IWC
Montblanc 1858 Automatic Chronograph

Montblanc’s 1858 range is a celebration of pioneering mountain expeditions, in the spirit of the 1920s and 1930s watches designed for military use and exploration. Today we might crave this return to nature, captured in the green dial that Montblanc has cased in bronze. A reminder that any challenge can be scaled with time!

1858 Automatic Chronograph © Montblanc
1858 Automatic Chronograph © Montblanc
Panerai Radiomir – 48mm (PAM997)

Military green makes its appearance at Panerai on the dial of four Radiomir watches: a reminder of the days when the Italian firm was the official supplier of wristwatches to Italian Navy frogmen. This quartet includes the Radiomir 48mm in microblasted black ceramic that will run for three days without winding.

Radiomir – 48mm (Pam997) © Panerai
Radiomir – 48mm (Pam997) © Panerai
Ressence Type1 SlimX

Don’t go searching for military connections at Ressence. Innovation is the name of the game for the ten-years-young brand. This Type 1 SlimX keeps it subtle with a dark olive green livery that contrasts a matte finish with circular graining.

Type 1 Slim X © Ressence
Type 1 Slim X © Ressence
TAG Heuer Autavia bronze

TAG Heuer’s Autavia chronograph triumphed on the 1960s racing circuit scene. Rediscovered three years ago, it has evolved into a full-fledged collection that had the watch community sit up and take note when fitted with the first carbon composite balance spring. Today’s Autavia has reclaimed its credentials as a rugged and reliable watch, and no more so than with this version in bronze.

Autavia bronze © TAG Heuer
Autavia bronze © TAG Heuer
Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Military

Khaki is the new recruit to the Marine Torpilleur Military line, which Ulysse Nardin describes as “straight out of the barracks: casual, comfortable and as minimalist as the torpedo ships that lent them their name.” As a brand whose chronometers were prized possessions of nineteenth-century naval officers, military style is clearly in its genes.

Marine Torpilleur Military © Ulysse Nardin
Marine Torpilleur Military © Ulysse Nardin
Zenith Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Adventure

A 45mm bronze case with the Zenith Flying Instruments logo engraved on its titanium back; a grained khaki dial; a camouflage green strap and the El Primero chronograph movement: this tool watch ticks all the boxes for whoever longs to be at the heart of the action, from adrenalin junkies to city slickers.

Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Adventure © Zenith
Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Adventure © Zenith
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