Watches for the military have always conformed to strict specifications regarding precision and legibility, though never colour. Green is not a required trait, except perhaps on certain NATO straps to match camouflage gear. Not so today: brands steer clear of the battlefield but not battledress with a plethora of green watches. Not every watch is designed to take on the toughest missions but they can all stand to attention on civvy street. Here are twelve examples of watches that go crazy for khaki.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph - 44 mm
Black and green ceramic for the case, bezel and pushers; a fumé green dial with a “Méga Tapisserie” pattern; a green textured rubber strap: this new Royal Oak Offshore chronograph is a green machine that tracks time with the utmost precision, thanks to the robust and reliable in-house 3126/3840 calibre.
Bell & Ross BR 03-92 MA-1
Bell & Ross takes inspiration from the iconic MA-1 flight jacket. Originally worn by United States Air Force pilots, it made the move to a different kind of runway as a fashion item. On the BR 03-92 MA-1, the sandwich dial’s bottom insert is orange, like the jacket’s lining. Dark khaki ceramic for the case plus a reversible khaki/orange strap confirm its military style.
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Mokarran Limited Edition
Among watch brands, Blancpain is certainly one of the most active contributors to ocean exploration and conservation. One of its most recent initiatives was to fund a study by the Mokarran Protection Society, based in French Polynesia, of the great hammerhead shark. This limited-edition dive watch with ceramic case and green dial supports this effort.
Breitling Avenger Chronograph 45 Night Mission
Breitling has been giving fresh impetus to its Avenger collection, which is as intrepid as its name suggests. A stalwart of the brand’s “Air” category (alongside the Aviator 8 and the Navitimer), Avenger watches are for aerial adventurers. Or at least those who aim to achieve the extraordinary, with this Night Mission in titanium on their wrist.
Hublot Big Bang Unico Italia Independent
For this second collaboration with the Italia Independent design studio, Hublot brings its art of fusion to carbon fibre and Texalium®, transposing the lightness and resistance of carbon to the high-shine colours of Texalium®. This Big Bang Unico rocks a camo pattern for bad boys made good.
IWC Big Pilot's Watch Big Date Spitfire Edition “Mission Accomplished”
Between August and December 2019, two British pilots flew a Silver Spitfire around the world, with the support of IWC. To commemorate the successful completion of this record-breaking journey, in 2020 the brand unveiled a Big Pilot’s Watch with green dial and bronze case as a limited edition of 500 pieces.
Montblanc 1858 Automatic Chronograph
Montblanc’s 1858 range is a celebration of pioneering mountain expeditions, in the spirit of the 1920s and 1930s watches designed for military use and exploration. Today we might crave this return to nature, captured in the green dial that Montblanc has cased in bronze. A reminder that any challenge can be scaled with time!
Panerai Radiomir – 48mm (PAM997)
Military green makes its appearance at Panerai on the dial of four Radiomir watches: a reminder of the days when the Italian firm was the official supplier of wristwatches to Italian Navy frogmen. This quartet includes the Radiomir 48mm in microblasted black ceramic that will run for three days without winding.
Ressence Type1 SlimX
Don’t go searching for military connections at Ressence. Innovation is the name of the game for the ten-years-young brand. This Type 1 SlimX keeps it subtle with a dark olive green livery that contrasts a matte finish with circular graining.
TAG Heuer Autavia bronze
TAG Heuer’s Autavia chronograph triumphed on the 1960s racing circuit scene. Rediscovered three years ago, it has evolved into a full-fledged collection that had the watch community sit up and take note when fitted with the first carbon composite balance spring. Today’s Autavia has reclaimed its credentials as a rugged and reliable watch, and no more so than with this version in bronze.
Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Military
Khaki is the new recruit to the Marine Torpilleur Military line, which Ulysse Nardin describes as “straight out of the barracks: casual, comfortable and as minimalist as the torpedo ships that lent them their name.” As a brand whose chronometers were prized possessions of nineteenth-century naval officers, military style is clearly in its genes.
Zenith Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Adventure
A 45mm bronze case with the Zenith Flying Instruments logo engraved on its titanium back; a grained khaki dial; a camouflage green strap and the El Primero chronograph movement: this tool watch ticks all the boxes for whoever longs to be at the heart of the action, from adrenalin junkies to city slickers.