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Label Noir “configures” a Rolex Tourbillon
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Label Noir “configures” a Rolex Tourbillon

Wednesday, 14 November 2018
By The FHH Journal editors
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The FHH Journal editors

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1 min read

“Grand” complications have never been a feature of Rolex – until Label Noir produced this Rolex Milgauss with tourbillon, confirming the rising trend for personalisation in watchmaking.

Unless historical information has never been revealed before, it seems unlikely that Rolex has ever produced a tourbillon watch in its past. But as some of its enthusiasts do not shy away from anything, the watchmaker Emmanuel Curti, CEO of Label Noir, a signature entirely dedicated to personalization, has risen upon request to the challenge of filling this loophole. The experience has been conclusive, it is obviously repeatable, within three months.

Milgauss tourbillon © Rolex
Milgauss tourbillon © Rolex

What enhances the appeal of the challenge and approach is that at no time did Emmanuel Curtis imagine replacing the original Milgauss calibre received from his customer with a tourbillon calibre of a size compatible with the space given. The idea was rather to keep as many original components as possible. Thus it was necessary to rework the watch plate, which still has its factory number. Then, it was necessary to “delicately” tear off the heart of the watch, its birth escapement (the balance-spring pair) in order to implant the “tourbillon cage”, its new regulating organ. Obviously, the operation created real challenges in terms of connections. Micromechanical surgery coupled also necessary to open a window in the dial while keeping the indexes and other initial inscriptions.

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