In 1947 architect Ludwig Mies van der Rohe adopted the phrase ‘less is more’ – its origins rooted in the 1855 Robert Browning poem “Andrea del Sarto (Called ‘The Faultless Painter’)” – as a way to describe minimalist design and architecture. This idea that simpler designs could actually be more enriching than overtly complex ones quickly gained currency within the world of haute culture. While the idea of minimalistic style has fallen in and out of fashion over the past decades, it is currently bang on trend, with this artistic approach now becoming ever present in the world of haute horology.
Firstly, how to describe minimalism as a style? Fashion journalist Gracia Ventus describes minimalism as a way to “challenge perception of space and matter, ensure purity of design, and to reduce form to its cogent, accessible essence”. Essentially, minimalism is about challenging the need for constant reinvention and additional frills, embracing a clean and straightforward aesthetic that is arguably timeless.
This concept would appear very relevant for today’s watch industry, as traditional watchmakers face the challenge of competing with highly technological devices that provide us with the time alongside a range of other applications and features. In this scenario, many of these watchmakers have found themselves returning to the roots of luxury watch design – rejecting the previous trend of exuberant, highly complicated timepieces. This shift in design has been highly notable at this year’s major watch fairs, with the likes of the Glashütte Original Senator Excellence, Zenith Elite 6150, the Nomos Tetra Neomatik and the new pieces from Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo line all evoking a positive response from the online community of luxury watch lovers. Other notable timepieces like the Hermès Cape Cod and the Baume & Mercier Petite Promesse demonstrate the relevance of the minimalistic trend with the female watch-buying market.
This rise of a minimalistic style demonstrates how an understated and modest aesthetic can, in the eyes of many, be more luxurious and sophisticated than the traditionally flashy statement pieces. With this in mind, we’ve identified several timepieces of 2016 that have successfully embraced a minimalistic design and evoked conversations among the online watch community.
Piaget Polo S
Piaget’s new Polo S adds to an already successful line of timepieces, with this particular model maintaining the sporty elegance of previous versions, but now with their newly developed in-house movement – the automatic calibre 1110P.
A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin 37mm
This cleanly designed 37mm watch from A. Lange & Söhne features just two gold hands upon its white dial, and is currently the thinnest timepiece in the brand’s history – just 5.9mm thick.
Glashütte Original Senator Excellence
Showcasing Glashütte Original’s new base movement (Calibre 36), the Senator Excellence features a power reserve of up to 100 hours at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vib/h) and is equipped with a silicon balance spring.
Zenith Elite 6150
Although this vintage-inspired, three-hand timepiece (with Zenith’s new in-house manufactured automatic mechanical movement) was actually launched last year (as part of a 150th anniversary celebration), the brand has recently released the model in a precious rose gold – making the 6150 the flagship model of the Elite range.
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony in White Gold
The new Vacheron Constantin Patrimony launched at this year’s SIHH showcased both the brand’s technical excellence (with their Calibre 4400 movement), and their dedication to maintaining traditional design codes.