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Patek Philippe reasserts its grand complications expertise
New Models

Patek Philippe reasserts its grand complications expertise

Friday, 07 August 2020
By The FHH Journal editors
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The FHH Journal editors

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3 min read

Patek Philippe presents the new Ref. 5303 as its first minute repeater with the striking mechanism on the dial side, together with reinterpretations of the legendary Ref. 5370 Split-Seconds Chronograph and of the classic Ref. 5270 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph.

Ref. 5303R-001 Minute Repeater

A slightly modified version of the Ref. 5303 Minute Repeater Tourbillon has become part of the current Patek Philippe collection. This new complication for enthusiasts of repeater timepieces stands out with its open architecture without a conventional dial. The repeater mechanism – for the first time with the hammers and gongs – can be admired in action without removing the watch from the wrist. This is a further expression of Patek Philippe’s customer-centric development philosophy. The transparency aspect also applies to the tourbillon: the back side of its cage can be seen beneath the seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. In this veritably perfect composition, the filigreed steel parts glisten against the backdrop of the rose gilt plate. The aesthetic of the manually wound caliber R TO 27 PS was subtly reworked to emphasize its appeal. For instance, certain components were pierced, as is common for skeletonized movements. Of course, Patek Philippe also mobilized its heritage in the manual finissage of movement parts: it decorated the plate with Genevan circular graining, applied a delicate perlage to the recesses, and decorated the hammers with a circular satin finish.

Ref. 5303R-001 Minute Repeater © Patek Philippe
Ref. 5303R-001 Minute Repeater © Patek Philippe
Ref. 5370P-011 Split-Seconds Chronograph

Apart from the minute repeater and the tourbillon, the triad at the pinnacle of the most elaborate horological complications also includes the split-seconds chronograph (movement No. 124’824); since 1923, it occupies a preferential position in Patek Philippe’s wristwatch collection. The Ref. 5370, the first split-seconds chronograph endowed with the proprietary caliber CHR 29-535 PS was launched in 2015 with a platinum case and a black enamel dial. Coveted by connoisseurs, this grand complication has now been subtly upgraded with a new blue face with glossy finish that reflects Patek Philippe’s proud tradition in Grand Feu enamel dials. It is an oeuvre of unmatched chromatic intensity that is made by hand on the basis of an 18K gold dial plate. As is the case with all of Patek Philippe’s platinum wristwatches, the new Ref. 5370P-011 is graced with a small diamond between the lugs at 6 o’clock. It replaces its predecessor with the black enamel dial, presenting a new combination of superb craftsmanship and watchmaking artistry.

Ref. 5370P-011 Split-Seconds Chronograph © Patek Philippe
Ref. 5370P-011 Split-Seconds Chronograph © Patek Philippe
Ref. 5270J-001 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

As the heir of Patek Philippe’s grand 1941 classic (Ref. 1518), the Ref. 5270 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph has been available since 2018 in platinum with a golden opaline dial and a rose-gold version with a gold “goutte”-style bracelet. Now, the manufacture is extending its regular collection of this grand complication by the Ref. 5270, cased in yellow gold for the first time. It is a very elegant outfit for this timeless watch that pairs a concave bezel with two-tier lugs. The caliber CH 29-535 PS Q is the first chronograph movement with a perpetual calendar developed in 2011 and crafted entirely by Patek Philippe. It combines traditional architecture (horizontal clutch, column wheel and manual winder) with six patented innovations for the chronograph functions and stands out with its extremely thin calendar mechanism (1.65mm for 182 parts). The movement can be admired through the sapphire-crystal case back. A solid back in 18K yellow gold is part of the scope of delivery.

Ref. 5270J-001 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph © Patek Philippe
Ref. 5270J-001 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph © Patek Philippe
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