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Patek Philippe – The Aquanaut turns 20

Patek Philippe – The Aquanaut turns 20

Tuesday, 28 March 2017
By The FHH Journal editors
The FHH Journal editors

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2 min read

The most laidback of all Patek Philippe watches lends itself to a new anniversary model in white gold. At 42 mm in diameter, it is also the largest in the Aquanaut line.

As a tribute to the 20th anniversary of its sporty Aquanaut collection, Patek Philippe presents the new Ref. 5168G. It is the first Aquanaut men’s wristwatch in 18K white gold, and with a diameter of 42 mm, it is also the largest model in this line. The format pays tribute to the original 1976 Nautilus of the same size that was nicknamed “Jumbo” and today is still referred to by that name among collectors. Also new: the night blue color of the dial that darkens to a subtly gradated black toward the outside. Its delicately embossed structure sets the stage for applied Arabic numerals in white gold that complement new luminous five-minute markers, also as appliques in white gold. But the design of the gently rounded octagonal bezel with vertically satin-finished flats and chamfered polished flanks remains unchanged.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut référence 5168G
Patek Philippe Aquanaut référence 5168G

An 18K white-gold case accommodates the self-winding caliber 324 S C movement. It melds all of the hallmarks of traditional haute horlogerie with innovative high-end technology. Merely 3.3 millimeters in height, the movement is so flat that even with its elaborate seals and gaskets, the complete watch is merely 8.25 millimeters thick. Its heavy central rotor in 21K gold provides ample energy. With a maximum deviation of -3 to +2 seconds per day, the rate accuracy of the watch is remarkable. The finissage of the movement is just as noteworthy: Geneva striping, countersunk and polished bores, gold-filled engravings, and round-chamfered, polished edges that emphasize the shapes of the individual bridges. The gold rotor is decorated with perlage and Geneva circular graining as well as an engraved Calatrava cross, a registered Patek Philippe trademark.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut référence 5168G
Patek Philippe Aquanaut référence 5168G

The same cross also graces the 18K white-gold fold-over clasp. It reliably secures the night blue composite strap embossed with the typical Aquanaut pattern. It is supple, tear-resistant, and largely immune to wear, salt water, and UV radiation. This makes it ideal for a watch with the personality of the new Aquanaut Ref. 5168G.

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