Roger Dubuis is unashamedly guilty of that most serious of the seven deadly sins: Pride, known in Latin as Superbia. Roger Dubuis has thus created Excalibur Superbia, crafted in palladium-enriched white gold and set with exactly 600 precious white diamonds and blue sapphires. This offers an extravagant housing for Roger Dubuis iconic signature calibre: a brand-new double flying tourbillon movement, the RD108SQ, inspired by its version launched in 2005, the first double-regulator calibre connected with a differential, built up in volume and adorned with a diamond-set star. What makes this model truly bold is that every stone set on the flange, the bezel, the case and the crown is tetrahedron shaped and assembled with an invisible setting on curved surfaces. The hardest way to set a stone, an invisible setting becomes nearly impossible when required on a curved surface.
The test of Roger Dubuis setters’ skill does not stop here, however. The final sting in the tail of the Excalibur Superbia comes with the grooving – the last step required to complete the invisible setting with the previously perfectly triangulated stones. This is so hard to do on a tetrahedron stone that it took each gemsetter an average of 30 minutes to do a single groove, corresponding to 900 hours for this operation alone on all three sides of the 600 diamonds, plus 420 hours to set the case and bezel – and that’s without even counting the stone-cutting! The entire process takes about three times longer than the same case set with baguette-cut stones. And just for good measure, reaching the very pinnacle of complexity Roger Dubuis-style, in the Excalibur Superbia, this already painstaking, groundbreaking process has been entirely achieved on a curved surface.