SIHH 2018: a taste of what’s to come
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Christophe Roulet
Editor-in-chief, HH Journal
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Traditionally, brands exhibiting at Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie like to whet our appetite with a preview of the models they will be unveiling during the week. Here’s our round-up of 14 new watches making their debut at the 28th edition of the Geneva fair.
Audemars Piguet Millenary
The Le Brassus-based Manufacture presents three new additions to its Millenary collection. Introduced in 1995, it’s been three years since any changes were made to the range. Joining the ranks this year are two versions in white gold and pink gold with Milanese bracelets – case and dial are unchanged. An opal dial version with a frosted gold case completes the line-up.
Cartier Rotonde Skeleton Mysterious Double Tourbillon
After last year’s pairing with a minute repeater, the mysterious double tourbillon returns in a skeleton execution of the Rotonde de Cartier. This seemingly free-floating complication is framed by open-worked bridges which form Cartier’s signature Roman numerals – an impression of transparency that produces a nonetheless powerful aesthetic.
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Flying Tourbillon Skeleton
First launched in 1975, the Laureato has been at the forefront of Girard-Perregaux’s offering for the past two years, with classic iterations alongside some “wilder” models. On this latter note, the new flying tourbillon skeleton version, in pink gold or white gold, introduces a graphic architecture whose distinctive feature is the diagonal formed by the offset barrel and tourbillon.
Greubel Forsey Mechanical Nano Episode 2
Alongside its Inventions which continue to mark production, Greubel Forsey has spent several years researching applications for nano-technologies in watchmaking. The result is the Mechanical Nano Foudroyante EWT which consumes 1,800 times less energy than a conventional mechanism with the same jumping seconds complication, and takes up 96% less space.
Hermès Arceau Chrono Titane
Recognisable by its dial font and by a round case whose asymmetrical stirrup-shaped lugs are a nod at Hermès’ equestrian origins, the Arceau debuted in 1978. This fortieth anniversary ushers in a sporty chronograph version inside a 41-mm bead-blasted titanium case.
IWC Tribute to Pallweber Edition "150 Years"
IWC is no stranger to digital jumping displays, having incorporated this then revolutionary feature into the Pallweber pocket watches it produced as from 1884. Leading celebrations of its 150th anniversary, the brand is, for the first time, recreating this design in a wristwatch that pays tribute to its proudly pioneering spirit.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface
Jaeger-LeCoultre carries on its partnership with bootmaker Casa Fagliano in 2018 with a 100-piece limited edition Reverso Tribute Duoface. The pink gold case is mounted on a two-tone cordovan leather strap which testifies to the Argentinean firm’s expertise. In characteristic Duoface style, this new edition displays two time zones, one on each of its contrasting dark and light dials.
Montblanc Star Legacy Automatic Chronograph
Established in 1884 and renowned as a maker of gold pocket watches, Minerva is the horological backbone of Montblanc. In recognition of this legacy, the brand presents two new Star Legacy chronographs (the collection turns 20 this year). The Automatic Chronograph spotlights an enduringly popular function in an eminently classic design.
Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Automatic
Three years after launching the thinnest manually-wound mechanical movement, Piaget strikes again with the Altiplano Ultimate Automatic, another record-breaker at 4.30mm high. Borrowing from the 900P concept movement, the caseback is also the mainplate that supports the 219 components in the movement.
Richard Mille RM 07-01
Having forged a reputation as a high-tech brand pushing the boundaries of watch design, Richard Mille ensures that women also benefit from its innovations. This RM 07-01 is an unprecedented combination of ceramic and diamonds. Residing inside its gem-set case is the CRMA2, the brand’s in-house automatic movement which is assembled on a mainplate and bridges in grade 5 titanium.
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Aventador S
Hot on the wheels of its partnership with Pirelli, Roger Dubuis entered into a new deal, this time with Lamborghini. Together they have produced the Excalibur Aventador S. The twin sprung balances are mounted at 90° in a movement based on the engine of the namesake supercar. The version launching at SIHH features a pink gold bezel, carbon case and black Alcantara strap.
Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Military
Building on the success of the Marine Torpilleur, released last year, Ulysse Nardin has produced a Military version which is directly inspired by the pocket chronometers that ship’s captains once carried with them on their ocean voyages. This new iteration has the striking good looks of a vintage military watch, tweaked for modern tastes and with COSC chronometer certification.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time
Vacheron Constantin extends its reinvented Overseas line with a function that sits perfectly with the image of travel it conveys, namely a dual-time display. Coaxial hands show home time and local time, and are easily set by the crown. The movement is the new 5110 DT in-house calibre, housed inside a 41-mm stainless steel case that is water-resistant to 150 metres. As a finishing touch, the bezel suggests the brand’s Maltese Cross emblem.
Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Planetarium
Presented four years ago as a collaboration with Christiaan van der Klaauw, the Midnight Planetarium watch lends itself to a version for women, inside a 38-mm Lady Arpels case with a diamond-coated bezel and caseband. The dial plays host to the Sun surrounded by its closest planets: Mercury, Venus and Earth, together with its satellite, the Moon. Each of these heavenly bodies orbits the dial at actual speed.
