SIHH brands love the ladies

The quest to win the hearts and minds of women was in full force at the 2013 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in Geneva, with most brands introducing spectacular pieces, from one-off artisanal works to impressive line extensions in iconic collections. Most new models from the Geneva-based brands were crafted to Geneva Seal standards, making them extra special.

Vacheron Constantin led the charge, introducing nothing but ladies’ watches this year – that’s right, not one single men’s watch was introduced by Vacheron Constantin at the 2013 SIHH. The brand introduced new pieces in three collections: Patrimony, Malte and Metiers d’Art. From the Patrimony collection came two models – the automatic Contemporaine, with a unique diamond-set minute track (set from underneath the dial) and a fully set version with 775 diamonds, and the Traditionelle, a manual-wound watch with a high jewellery masterpiece fully set with over 300 baguettes. Three models in the Malte collection, included a paved dial version, and from the Metiers d’Art collection, the Florilège, a trio of grand feu cloisonné enamel dials inspired by The Temple of Flora, a book of botanical illustrations written in 1799 by botanist/explorer Robert John Thornton. All introductions are crafted according Geneva Hallmark standards.

Gemsetting prowess

Not to be outdone, Cartier introduced 40 (40!) high jewellery watches and eight metiers pieces this year, out of a total of 110 new models. Under the collection “Les Heure Fabuleuses de Cartier,” the brand created a selection of gem-set dazzlers in several motifs including parrots, peacocks, frogs, birds, snakes, tortoises and, of course, the signature panther.

Roger Dubuis also demonstrated its gemsetting prowess with the incredible Velvet High Jewellery watch, set completely with tapered baguettes, each one custom cut and invisibly set, for a look that resembles marquetry rather than ordinary pavé. Like all Roger Dubuis watches, it bears the Geneva Hallmark.

Also in the jewelry watch category, Montblanc took its Princesse Grace de Monaco collection to the next level, with the Pétales de Rose Motif jewellery watch. Set with 810 diamonds for a total of 6.76 carats, the crown is set with the proprietary 43-facet Montblanc diamond. Likewise, Piaget displayed its heritage as a master jeweller with a fully set version of the Limelight Gala. Finally, Audemars Piguet weighed in with a high jewellery piece in its Royal Oak collection, with over 11 carats of diamonds. Other ladies’ offerings included the Royal Oak automatic jewellery watch, the Jules Audemars Extra Thin with diamonds and the Royal Oak Offshore Ladycat. At the fair, brand president Francois Bennahmias said Audemars Piguet is working on beefing up its ladies’ models, moving from 35% up to 45% ladies’ within the next two years.

Fashion colors play a role

Van Cleef continued its run of collectors’ pieces in the Poetic Complications, Extraordinary Dials collections, crafted in enamel and depicting the brand’s signature motifs: butterflies, ballerinas, birds and fairies. The Ballerine Enchantée is a masterpiece, with a champlevé enamel dial depicting a ballerina/butterfly with a tutu/wings that “flutter” up and down, thanks to a double retrograde movement.
In larger production collections, fashion colors played a role, with Jaeger-LeCoultre adding colorful “double-tour” straps to its Grande Reverso Lady Ultra Thin – including red, green and beige. Likewise, Baume & Mercier keeps the Linea line fashionably current by continuously introducing new straps. This year, the update involves not just new colors but new techniques, including an assortment of straps crafted in hand-woven leather.

Ralph Lauren took a step in the direction of accessibility with a steel watch in its Stirrup collection at an entry price of USD 2,500 (in quartz). A selection of new, colorful straps and a new chain link bracelet were also introduced, as well as an all-jewellery collection. The Stirrup has already become as iconic as the Cartier Tank, which says a lot for a brand that only began in 2008. ■