SIHH flexes its muscles
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Christophe Roulet
Editor-in-chief, HH Journal
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Among the useful functions lining the aisles at the 28th Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, the chronograph is the standout complication. It confirms demand for robust, precise, reliable timepieces, and the enduring appeal of a sporty design.
A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph
Launched in 1995, five years after the German firm’s revival, the 1815 is a dovetailing of classic design and functional mechanics – a tradition this flyback chronograph is proud to uphold. Subsidiary seconds and a 30-minute counter keep track of short intervals while the movement measures time with one-fifth of a second precision. A nod to the classic pocket watch, the pulsometer scale around the edge of the dial is used to measure the heart rate – a function any long-distance runner can appreciate.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Automatic Chronograph
Ever since its launch in 1993, the Royal Oak Offshore has been a watch of many faces, embracing multiple materials and functions. No fewer than 120 versions have seen daylight over the years, with renditions in titanium, gold, platinum and forged carbon. For the 25th anniversary of this 42mm watch, Audemars Piguet has gone back in time with a reissue of the original Royal Oak Offshore. Cased in steel, it features a blue rubber crown and pushers, a blue dial with the distinctive “Petite Tapisserie” pattern, and a steel bracelet.
Baume & Mercier Clifton Club Burt Munro Tribute
In honour of its recent partnership with Indian Motorcycles, the oldest American motorcycle-maker, Baume & Mercier unveils the Clifton Club Burt Munro Tribute, a limited run of 1,967 pieces. For those out of the motorcycle loop, Burt Munro holds the under-1,000cc speed record, which he set in 1967 astride an Indian motorcycle with an engine he had tuned himself. His record of 296.11 kph still stands today. A tribute to the great man, Baume & Mercier presents a robust 44mm chronograph in steel. Munro’s lucky number 35 is prominent on the dial.
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph
Girard-Perregaux has beefed up its Laureato collection since its successful relaunch two years ago. After the different sizes and new materials introduced in 2016, this year it is putting new functions on the map. They include a chronograph, a natural choice for a sporty and stylish watch such as this. In gold or steel, 42mm or 38mm, there are three different dial colours to choose among. The metal bracelet is recognisable by its wide, satin-brushed, H-shaped links.
Hautlence Invictus Neon
What better name for this sleek and powerful chronograph than Invictus – Latin for “unbeaten”. Hautlence has boosted the design of the latest models to join the range, which debuted four years ago, with bright, almost fluorescent colours. They wash over the bezel and cover the honeycomb-patterned inserts that sit on each side of the dial. Forging a contrast, the hour, minute and seconds counters are the same intense black as the case. The Invictus Neon comes in orange, yellow and green versions.
IWC Pilot's Watch Chronograph Edition “150 Years”
To mark its 150th anniversary, IWC is introducing a capsule collection of 27 original models, spread across its landmark ranges. They include three Pilot’s Watches, one of which is this Chronograph Edition “150 Years”, limited to 1,000 pieces. Technical by nature, its time display including small hacking seconds is complemented by the chronograph’s hour and minute totalisers plus centre seconds. A soft iron inner case protects the movement against the influence of magnetic fields.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph WT
The Le Brassus watchmaker comes to SIHH with a completely new collection, inspired by the Memovox Polaris – a standout watch dating from 1968. Five models set the ball rolling, each with an in-house movement. The Chronograph WT version has the robustness and sporting elegance that are the hallmarks of the collection, with the additional benefit of a world time complication. As well as the two chrono pushers, the 44mm titanium case features a second crown at 10 o’clock which controls the rotating city disc. Simply set it to the city you’re in to read the time around the globe.
Montblanc 1858 Automatic Chronograph
Minerva, Montblanc’s illustrious manufacturing arm, is celebrating its 160th anniversary this year. The 1858 collection pays tribute to this extraordinary legacy with some deliciously retro timepieces. These include an Automatic Chronograph whose 42mm case comes in steel or bronze. The back is engraved with a compass and two crossed ice axes. They symbolise the challenges of mountaineering as well as the pioneering spirit that Minerva has always shown: many of the timepieces it produced in the 1920s were professional instruments, designed to be taken on expeditions.
Panerai Luminor Marina Logo 3 Days Acciaio - 44 mm
The ultimate sport watch boasting a strong, no-frills design, the Luminor Logo is one of the Italian firm’s icons, whether in its Base or Marina versions. As its name implies, this minimalist model has only one purely decorative element and that is the OP logo on the dial. Every other feature is exclusively functional. The six models introduced this year come equipped with the new manual-wind P.6000 calibre with a power reserve of three days. It fits inside a 44mm case.
Parmigiani Kalpagraphe Chronomètre
The Kalpa has continued to make its mark among Parmigiani’s collections since its launch in 2001. Still with the tonneau case, teardrop lugs and delta-shaped hands that define its aesthetic, it returns this year with shaped movements, developed by Parmigiani to match the tonneau case. The first three models in this vein, all for men, were unveiled at SIHH. They include the Kalpagraphe Chronomètre. Its pink gold case houses the PF362 calibre, an automatic, integrated chronograph movement with COSC certification. It has a power reserve of 65 hours.
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Pirelli
Ever since Roger Dubuis immersed itself in the world of motorsports, via partnerships with Pirelli and Lamborghini, the Geneva firm has been putting its Excalibur watch front and centre. This is, after all, its flagship range and responsible for 80% of sales. For the Spider Pirelli, Roger Dubuis has taken rubber from tyres that equipped Formula 1 Grand Prix winning cars and recycled it on competition straps. Pirelli is also the inspiration for the bright colours that liven up the Excalibur Spider, now in white and blue.
Ulysse Nardin Diver Deep Dive
This Diver Deep Dive is a professional diver’s watch with a titanium crown guard and helium escape valve, guaranteed water-resistant to 1,000 metres. Another new feature, the rubber strap includes an expandable element that adjusts to changes in wrist size that are caused by the compression of a neoprene diving suit. The robust, angular case is made from titanium and sports cut-edged lugs. The large bezel is easy to operate, even with diving gloves, thanks to a notched circumference.
