The top 10 chronographs at Baselworld
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Marie de Pimodan-Bugnon
Freelance journalist
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The ultimate sports complication, it’s a function with a thousand faces. Classically elegant, rugged or with a pop of colour, the chronograph obeys only one rule: precision. We take a look at ten of the new releases from Baselworld 2018.
Breguet Marine Chronograph 5527
Breguet is no stranger to the chronograph – which it ranks among its inventions, alongside the tourbillon -, and the Marine Chronograph 5527, which shares the same maritime-inspired aesthetic as last year’s Marine Equation Marchante, takes full advantage of this expertise. The automatic movement demonstrates technique and precision with its silicon balance spring and escapement, and is revealed through the sapphire back of the white gold case. The blue-coloured gold dial is hand-decorated with a guilloché wave pattern, a backdrop for the chronograph hours, minutes and small seconds counters, as well as an aperture for the date.
Breitling Chronomat B01 Chronograph 44mm
Three black counters against a blue or grey “blackeye” dial, a sturdy 44mm case in satin-brushed steel, a steel Pilot bracelet and the in-house B01 calibre… Breitling revises its classics with this latest version of the Chronomat. Designed for pilots – who’ll appreciate the excellent legibility, including in low light conditions thanks to the lume on the markers and hands -, this chrono is equally at home in the third dimension as in the depths of the sea, thanks to water-resistance to 500 metres.
Carl F. Bucherer Manero Flyback
The elegant and discreet Manero Flyback gives a classic spin to this sporty complication. Chronograph minutes and seconds, a small seconds subdial and a date display take on a stately air against the jet-black dial. The proprietary chronograph movement inside the 43mm steel case is controlled by a blued column-wheel. Bucherer has incorporated the always-welcome flyback function, which enables the user to record multiple short intervals in rapid succession.
Chopard Mille Miglia Racing Colors
One hand on the wheel, the other on the gear lever. One eye on the mirror, the other on the bright and cheery Mille Miglia Racing Colors! Celebrating the 30th anniversary of its partnership with “la corsa la piu bella del mondo”, Chopard has given its chrono the colours attributed in 1910 to five nations taking part in international motor races: Rosso Corsa for Italy, British Racing Green, Silver Arrows for Germany, Bleu de France blue, and Yellow for Belgium. Produced as limited editions of 300 for each dial colour, these Mille Miglia Racing Colors have plenty under the hood too: as well as being COSC chronometer-certified, the chronograph movement powers a tachymeter and a date display.
Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Berluti Scritto
What, in Hublot’s books, is the height of elegance? Answer: a watch to match one’s shoes. The brand reiterates its partnership with famed Italian bootmaker Berluti for a supremely elegant version of the Classic Fusion chronograph. King Gold makes the perfect counterpart for the burgundy Berluti calfskin on the dial and strap. The “Scritto” pattern of the leather is inspired by eighteenth-century calligraphy. This Classic Fusion is, however, reserved for gentlemen whose wrist can carry off the generous 45mm diameter of the case!
Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph "The Capital Edition"
What is it that makes this chronograph so very stylish? Perhaps the fumé grey dial, dubbed Bourbon Grey by Glashütte Original. A blend of clean lines and light reflections, this Senator’s “face” is brought to life by an in-house column-wheel chronograph calibre with – the cherries on the cake – a flyback function, large date and, should something need timing in the dead of night – SuperLuminova on the markers and hands. This 42mm chronograph comes as three limited-edition executions: 100 in steel, 25 in red gold and five in platinum.
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Flyback Chronograph
Patek Philippe’s sportiest collection was missing just one thing: a chrono. Not any more, courtesy of the new Aquanaut Flyback Chronograph complete with an automatic movement that features a vertical disk clutch. Legibility and precision are assured by the orange sweep seconds hand that tracks time to a quarter of a second, while the single register at 6 o’clock counts up to 60 minutes. Patek Philippe has seamlessly incorporated this chronograph into the Aquanaut design, whose rounded octagonal bezel sits atop a 42.2mm steel case. The structured black dial is complemented by a composite strap in black or orange.
RJ Arraw
Bye-bye RJ Romain Jerome. Introducing RJ, which puts the seal on this new identity with the very first collection in a new line of products. While inspiration clearly comes from the brand’s established aesthetic, with a definite nod to the Titanic-DNA and Moon Dust watches, several details set this new watch apart. Four rubber bumpers surround the smoothly rounded 45mm case. Lending a classic counterpoint, the galvanised dial is painted then lacquered. Arrow-shaped hands recall the Arraw name. The movement is a Dubois-Dépraz chronograph calibre. In line with the growing demand for customisation, the Arraw comes in nine executions with an easy-release strap-change system.
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Chronometer "Tête de Vipère"
The viper’s precision and focus are a fitting comparison for this 155-piece limited-edition Carrera that TAG Heuer is issuing for the collection’s 55th anniversary. Rooted in the auto-racing world, this is the first TAG Heuer chronograph to be delivered “Tête de Vipère” certification by Besançon Observatory, having successfully completed sixteen days of testing in five positions and at three temperatures. This high level of precision is provided by the Heuer-02T chronograph tourbillon calibre, packaged in an impressive 45mm blue ceramic case.
Zenith Defy El Primero 21
Revealed in 2017 as the new spearhead for Zenith, the Defy El Primero 21 tracks time with incredible 1/100th of a second precision, courtesy of a movement that beats at a frequency of 50 Hz – ten times faster than its illustrious predecessor – and is also Timelab-certified. The all-black aesthetic, from the 44mm ceramic case to the comfortable rubber strap, keeps a low profile; all the better to focus attention on the workings of the movement through the open dial, a new design signature from the brand.
