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Watches & Wonders: design first
Watches and Wonders

Watches & Wonders: design first

Wednesday, 22 April 2020
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Christophe Roulet
Editor-in-chief, HH Journal

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3 min read

Design over complications. The time-only watch (with the possible addition of a date display) is considered by many to be the true litmus test of a maker’s expertise. Women’s watches are a prime illustration. Here are selected examples ahead of Watches & Wonders 2020.

Despite the difficulties in recent weeks that have affected both production and communication, brands are offering a preview of the new releases that will be presented in greater detail on the watchesandwonders.com platform starting April 25. Among them, time-only watches stand out for the creativity implied when hours and minutes are all there is to focus attention. Here is our selection of the new releases already revealed.

A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus

A fresh chapter begins for A. Lange & Söhne as it ventures into new creative terrain with this first ever timepiece entirely in steel. The case, a 40.5mm pebble, seamlessly extends into an integrated bracelet that adjusts for a perfect fit. The Odysseus’ sport-inflected elegance fits perfectly with the useful functions of day and date indications, their large size a match for the subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock. Power comes from an automatic movement.

Odysseus © A. Lange & Söhne
Odysseus © A. Lange & Söhne
Maillon de Cartier

Explorations of past icons are no obstacle to creativity, as Cartier once again demonstrates with the Maillon. Under the custodianship of creative director Marie-Laure Cerede, this precious watch “plays on the look of the classic chain-link bracelet”. And indeed the links are the focal point of the design, aligned sideways in a visual continuation of the hexagonal dial. The effect is striking, as is the eight-year warranty that Cartier now gives for all its watches.

Maillon de Cartier
Maillon de Cartier
Panerai Luminor Marina Carbotech™ - 44mm

This new 44mm execution of the Luminor Marina in Carbotech™ (PAM01661) spearheads Panerai’s “star” collection this year. The case is made from a cutting-edge composite, formed of superimposed layers of carbon fibre which are alternately aligned. As well as being highly resistant to shocks and corrosion, Carbotech™ weighs next to nothing on the wrist (96 grams for the case) and has an interesting appearance. The ultra-thin (6mm) P.9010 movement with three days of power reserve seals the deal.

Luminor Marina Carbotech™ - 44mm © Panerai
Luminor Marina Carbotech™ - 44mm © Panerai
Piaget Limelight Gala Precious Sapphire Gradient

The Swinging Sixties are alive in this Piaget watch. Inspired by one of the brand’s signature designs, the asymmetric lugs stretch and curve around the dial. From the white gold bracelet with its rippling Palace Decor to the subtle gradient of 20 diamonds and 22 blue sapphires that have been set on the lugs and bezel using the “Serti Descendu” technique, this Limelight Gala is a magnificent illustration of Piaget’s expertise – as is the hand-engraved gold dial with its coating of translucent blue Grand Feu enamel.

Limelight Gala Precious Sapphire Gradient © Piaget
Limelight Gala Precious Sapphire Gradient © Piaget
Rebellion Predator S gold & diamonds

Designed by Eric Giroud in 2012, the Predator returns in a resized “S” version. While this is the smallest watch from Rebellion at 42mm, it is no less powerful with a wide bezel screwed onto the 5N gold case and a honeycombed black dial swept by sword-shaped hands. Motor sports are ingrained into Rebellion’s identity, confirmed by details such as the date display that takes its cue from a fuel-tank flap. The engine is a 4 Hz mechanical calibre delivering 48 hours of power reserve.

Predator S gold & diamonds © Rebellion
Predator S gold & diamonds © Rebellion
Vacheron Constantin Égérie self-winding

Vacheron Constantin’s new women’s collection finds inspiration in the rarefied world of haute couture and the refinement that prevails in the ateliers of the great couturiers. These qualities appear first on the dial, the centre of which is embellished with a pleated design, reminiscent of fabric. The off-centre date display of this self-winding model is fringed with diamonds, while the Arabic numerals have been specially calligraphed to suggest the delicacy of lace.

Égérie self-winding © Vacheron Constantin
Égérie self-winding © Vacheron Constantin
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