Watchmaking’s exclusive appeal

As the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) continues to rise to the fore among the myriad watchmaking awards and distinctions, it’s interesting to look at how much it would cost to put one of these marvels on the wrist. None of this year’s winning timepieces would leave much change out of CHF 200,000; then there is Vacheron Constantin’s Celestia Astronomical, a unique piece whose “price on request” can be estimated in excess of a million of any currency. Clearly we are seated at watchmaking’s top table – the one the ordinary collector can only dream of joining. “There is, I think, a certain polarisation taking place within the profession,” commented Christian Selmoni, director of Style and Heritage at Vacheron Constantin, during Dubai Watch Week. “For a company such as ours, this is clearly a strategic segment which we intend to further develop through our Cabinotiers department, for which we have great ambitions. We are in the realms of the ultimate in exclusivity. These are extremely complicated mechanisms, generally with the addition of the métiers d’art. We’re looking at “pièces uniques”, such as the Celestia Astronomical or the Symphonia Grande Sonnerie which we presented at the last Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie.”

One can conclude, then, that Les Cabinotiers – which makes commissioned pieces in addition to some thirty unique watches a year – features on the road map which recently appointed CEO Louis Ferla has drawn up for the Manufacture. The aim being to cater to clients whose passion for haute horlogerie is without limit, but also propose one-off timepieces, made at Vacheron Constantin’s initiative and ready for purchase, to collectors who aren’t prepared to wait several years for their dream watch. In October in Kyoto, a select circle of collectors were shown some forty one-off Cabinotiers creations. The first event of its kind for Vacheron Constantin, it was, says Christian Selmoni, “phenomenally successful”.

Mental anguish

Unique pieces are collectors’ most coveted object, though not the only aspiration watchmakers are intent on fulfilling. Just beneath them on the scale of desirability come limited editions – something of a must for the brands coming to Dubai Watch Week whose host and organiser, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, is happy to pass on its customers’ wishes for something out of the ordinary. And brands are more than willing to oblige, with timepieces they have created especially for the event. H. Moser & Cie travelled to the Emirate with Yin and Yang, two versions of its Endeavour Centre Seconds Automatic with fumé slate dial, reserved for just 34 lucky buyers. Hublot riposted with a pair of Classic Fusion Dubai Independent with a blue ceramic case. Visitors could admire the prototypes and their dial in embroidered ghatta, a sought-after fabric in the Emirate. Once again, these two limited editions will be reserved for Hublot’s inner circle of admirers. Roger Dubuis also chose Dubai Watch Week for the Middle East launch of its Excalibur AventadorS, inspired by the freshly minted collaboration with Lamborghini. Given the region’s love affair with Italian-designed supercars, and the 88 watches proposed in the Giallo Orion livery, disappointment is inevitable for some.

If one-offs and limited editions aren’t enough for the most zealous collector, personalisation could be the ultimate weapon. The new partnership between Bamford Watch Department, which has made customisation its raison d’être, and LVMH watch brands Bulgari, TAG Heuer and Zenith was one of the week’s talking points. Opportunity abounds for those willing to take this route – which won’t be the case of Maximilian Büsser, founder and CEO of MB&F: “Personally, I’ve always refused made-for-measure pieces. You only need accept a single request to open the floodgates. It’s highly unlikely that we should ever grant this type of request.” Czapek & Cie CEO Xavier de Roquemaurel subscribes to a different view: “We are a young brand, founded on funding from our potential clients who are also our shareholders, and we’ve fulfilled numerous requests for personalisation. We also offer personalisation options for the dials and certain other external parts of our non-limited watches. Our personalisation service extends right up to one-off pieces. At this level of luxury, we feel we should be offering such a service and are working to develop it further.” Jaeger-LeCoultre, through its Atelier, also looks favourably on this type of request, as does Roger Dubuis: customised watches already account for 10% of its sales. Ultimately, it all comes down to the collector’s need to be able to walk into a room confident that no-one else will be wearing an identical watch. If brands can alleviate this mental anguish, why should they refuse.